Greetings, I searched the archives but didn't find this problem. My washer (Model#110.27812690) suddenly didn't spin the last load. I moved the cycle selector though diff parts of several cycles, and the motor is humming, but the barrel won't move. Is this the motor coupler, or something else. Should I buy parts from Sears, or is there a better source. I don't like their customer service. Thanks in advance!
If the washer won't spin or agitate its a good chance the coupler is broke. If the lid switch is bad your washer won't spin,
but the motor also won't hum. So I doubt the lid switch. Could also be something in the pump stalling the motor. More than likely the coupler bad. Common problem on these washers. Coupler part # 285852. Sears or do an online search for appliance parts. Everyone carries them. Dave
Hi - I was looking for the same answer... and it was the COUPLER! THANKS! A possible $200 repair or new washer turned out to be a $23 part ($10 if from Sears) with a few nasty words from hubby who had a hard time getting the cover back on!
GREAT INFO!
Thanks!
Thanks for your advice. I have a Kenmore washer with a similar problem, however, the drum will spin sometimes if I turn the agitator a bit and then re-start. Should I still suspect the coupler?
Originally Posted by dave6466
If the washer won't spin or agitate its a good chance the coupler is broke. If the lid switch is bad your washer won't spin,
but the motor also won't hum. So I doubt the lid switch. Could also be something in the pump stalling the motor. More than likely the coupler bad. Common problem on these washers. Coupler part # 285852. Sears or do an online search for appliance parts. Everyone carries them. Dave
Thanks everyone! I called a rservic repair person and they concurred on the coupler, and came and replaced it the same day for $100. A little steep for a $25 part, but hey I didn't scrape any knuckles, and laundry was underway that day! Next time, maybe I'll try the repair myslef since I watched the guy repairing it.
Originally Posted by adanek
Thanks for your advice. I have a Kenmore washer with a similar problem, however, the drum will spin sometimes if I turn the agitator a bit and then re-start. Should I still suspect the coupler?
Yes. Good chance the coupler is broke but still able to spin the drum at certain spots. Dave
Hubby ended up having to refix the washer last night after a 1/2 successful test run. He thinks he put the coupler on wrong and it slipped out of place. Working great now...
$100 isn't bad... at least you knew what might be wrong and were prepared. It is a horrible feeling to be at the mercy of a repair person who may be taking you for a RIDE. Hubby had a heck of a time getting the washer put back together the first time, I think our 6 year old learned dome new words... so the axtra $75 may have been worth not having to hassle with that. It was going to cost us $60 - $80 just to have someone come look at ours.
I love this forum! Now I am hoping hubby will take a stab at the dishwasher that quit last week (we had to replace the TV the week before, it has been a BAD month!)
We were having an issue with our washer, a small leak that I though was stemming from the spout that delivers the water into the wash basin. I took off the back and found that I was right, but I cannot get the part today. I put the washer back together but during my test run the water kept filling and then overran the washer....and it was still filling....
I opened up the washer again and found that the tube that ran from the water level selector to the bottom of the was disconnected. I reconnected it but I get the same results.
One other thing, when I move the wash knob it dosent seem to want to procede through the wash cycle on its own now...
Not sure what happened, but I could really use some help.
Thanks,
Matt
Make sure the tubing is still connected at switch tub. Run the washer on the spin cycle for a few minutes to remove any water that may have gotten into tube try the wash cycle again. The timer won't advance untill the fill switch is satisfied at the selected water level. Dave
We had a spin problem and it was the motor coupler. I replaced that and now having a problem with the water fill, it doesn't stop. Put it on small load and it keeps filling. I don't think it washes either.
But it does spin! What did I do to it? Any help?
Thanks,
Jack H.
Sounds like you might have knocked off the plastic tubing that goes up to the fill switch when you replaced coupler. Look around the outside of tub with the shell off towards bottom of tub. You should see where the tube pushes onto a fitting mounted to tub. The fill switch senses the water level shuts off water allows timer to advance to the wash cycle.
Thank you Dave, it was the tube going to the fill switch. You saved the weekend for me.
Thanks again,
Jack H.
My washing machine just stopped...agitator stuck and couldn't turn it manually. Followed advice and went to Sears for a new $15 Coupler. Replaced it and washer works great again! This site is a life saver! Thank you!
P.S. I recommend calling Sears Hardware first to ask which location sells the part.
how do i get to this coupler that seems to cause all of the problems?
Here is a link and some instructions
Here is a link to what I think your problem is
Whirpool Drive-Coupling Replacement
The only thing I do different is not to take cabinet off, I pull the machine out from wall far enough to lean it back on hoses(far enough to lean back by it's self) and work under machine. Water pump can stay on hoses and push to the left and fold hoses to stay out of way. when you reinstall motor be sure to take extra care on the way the pins line up to the holes in the rubber piece. Lots of practice takes me about 15 minutes but know every tool I will need. Give about a hour for job.
The washer makes a grinding noise, and wont spin. Pulled and check coupler, it looks ok. Motor runs, no obstructions around agitater. It will Fill/Drain FYI, I'm no pro, but with this info I'm thinking clutch or trans. How should I go about testing or determining which.
Did you take out the coupler? the newer couplers crack and look ok before you remove them.
see if the clutch disk spins on the spin cycle. if not its the coupler or the gearcase. if so its the clutch,basket drive or drive block or something stuck between the basket and the tub
Hi,
I'm having the same problem here and try to fix it myself. Anyone can suggest me where to get the how-to text/video?
Thank you in advance.
^model#? is the motor turning? is the clutch spinning(tip back and look underneath)? remove agitator and check for worn out drive block
Similar problem on my 80 series kenmore washer (mod# 11024812200) - it will fill and agitate, but it won't spin or drain. lid switch seems okay. it tries to engage but the drum won't turn. It tries, kinda makes a chunk noise, the agitator moves about an inch and then stops. the motor hums.
Does that sound like the motor coupler or something else?
Thanks!
is the clutch spinning(tip back and look underneath)? remove agitator and check for worn out drive block
Take the clips off the water pump and pull it off shaft and try to spin it now. May have something in water pump allowing motor to turn one way.
thanks for the tips. the clutch wasn't running, there was just a humming. I decided to recheck everything, so I started it again to see if the timer was actually working. it was, and this time when I let it go thru, it drained and the drum spun just fine. I pulled all kinds of material out of the tub where it drains, so I think some worn fabric pulled apart and the pieces got wrapped under the agitator. of course, my tub is now clogged...d'oh!
Once it drains, I will retest with a small load of laundry and see what happens.
Thanks for you help!
I to have a kenmore series 80 with prob. It will fill with water and start agitateing, then stop. If you wait long enough(4-5 hours) it start again and runs through the cycle. It takes 8 hours to do 1 load. When it's stopped I can't get to do anything, turn all the knobs and nothing. Any Idea's?
Steve
I just pulled the motor apart and the coupler looks good, could the thermal overload be bad? What would happen if I just jumper that out?
I would'nt jump the thermal protection. Its there for a reason.
Sounds like bad motor bearings. The longer it runs, the more the motor seizes up trips off. Takes a long time to cool off before it comes back on. To be sure its the motor you can take it off tranny pump sit it on the floor. Put machine on spin cycle let it run. I bet after a few minutes it overheats trips off. Dave
Help! first off, what a great web site and was very helpful in determining our spin problem on our Kenmore model 25842400, 80 series. After reading all questions and answers we determined that the problem was in the motor coupler, ordered, installed and now another problem. Hubby, never having had a washer apart, took it completely apart, shaft removed, put back together with new coupler, did a test in the garage, tub spins, all looks and sounds good. Bring it into the house, load in a small amount of laundry, wait.. the spin mode now makes an awful loud clangy noise and no spin. Back out to the garage, apart, back together, test, good to go. Back in house, load, same thing, seems like the spin mode wants to catch but doesn't stay going, noise is still very much there. Back out to garage, checked gear box this time, says all looks ok. Put back together, test, it spins, test again, it doesn't spin. Besides both being confused we are very frustrated. I'm sure the coupler was the original problem because as soon as it was together the first time it went to spin right away on the test, but now we either have another problem or something isn't put back together correctly. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
^possible bad gearcase. turn it to spin and see if the clutch disc is spinning and report back
well, in reference to our Kenmore model #25842400 spin problem, we were instructed to test the gearcase to see if the clutch was spinning. With the machine tipped on its back and all intact, my husband plugged it in and he watched the mechanisms while I put it in spin mode. He says that from what we can see the motor is working and the gearcase is working up to the clutch. The clutch spins but the tub does not. It also makes a loud grinding, whinning noise. Any suggestions is much appreciated.
Take out the tub I think you some how got the shaft that drive the basket out of place and it is not engaging the drive block. If that is the case you will need a new drive block and possibly a new basket drive. here is a link to the parts
KENMORE | Model #11025842400 | AUTOMATIC WASHER | BRAKE, CLUTCH, GEARCASE, MOTOR AND PUMP PARTS | SearsPartsDirect.com
#1 is basket drive
KENMORE | Model #11025842400 | AUTOMATIC WASHER | AGITATOR, BASKET AND TUB PARTS | SearsPartsDirect.com
# 15 is drive block
remove the agitator and inspect the drive block. make sure the 2 tabs from the basket drive are seated into the block
Originally Posted by landers96
I to have a kenmore series 80 with prob. It will fill with water and start agitateing, then stop. If you wait long enough(4-5 hours) it start again and runs through the cycle. It takes 8 hours to do 1 load. When it's stopped I can't get to do anything, turn all the knobs and nothing. Any Idea's?
Steve
Hi, was there a solution to this problem? I am having the EXACT same issue and am in need of help!
Read back a few reply's and check what has been suggested, Tell us what you have checked so we can help.
Originally Posted by pugsl
Here is a link and some instructions
Here is a link to what I think your problem is
Whirpool Drive-Coupling Replacement
The only thing I do different is not to take cabinet off, I pull the machine out from wall far enough to lean it back on hoses(far enough to lean back by it's self) and work under machine. Water pump can stay on hoses and push to the left and fold hoses to stay out of way. when you reinstall motor be sure to take extra care on the way the pins line up to the holes in the rubber piece. Lots of practice takes me about 15 minutes but know every tool I will need. Give about a hour for job.
I used this video, which was great for replacing the coupler. The new coupler is in but we still have an issue where the drum will spin if the load is light (i.e. just water or only a few clothes) but won't spin with a normal load. When the machine gets to the spin cycle with a normal load, it'll make a grinding noise, but the drum won't spin.
Does that mean that the clutch is bad? If so, how would I confirm this?
Hi Guys,
I own a Kennmore 80 series Washer as well. My Machine Stopped working after it filled itself with water. There is no noise what so ever to at least indicate that machine is repairable. What should I do? Please help! Thanks
^check the lid switch. post model# if you need more help
I have a Kenmore 80 series washer. All of a sudden it is making a whinning sound and the clothes keep getting tangled around the agitator. I thought that maybe it was the size of the loads but it does the same thing with small loads too. Any suggestions besides buy a new washer?
Take cabinet off, uncilp water pump and pull off shaft(leave hoses attached) jump lid switch and put washer into spin. if no whine than you need a water pump, Post model # will help
My Kenmore 80 series washer will not drain or spin. I took the cover off, took the pump off, and took the motor out and put it on the floor. The pump spins ok. The coupler seems intact. I tried to turn the motor on by putting the dial on the spin cycle and starting it....the motor hums loud, tries to spin slowly sometimes; hums, doesn't spin at all; hums, starts spinning slowly and then something inside the motor catches and it spins normally. The motor gets very hot during the times that it fails to spin normally...Do I need a new motor? Could this be a problem with the timer/electronics? TIA
Tags: spin, problem, kenmore, clothes, washer, series, drive block, back together, spin cycle, washer spin, basket drive, enough lean
