What'S A Good Ventless Propane Heater For A Garage

I have a pretty new home, with a two car UNHEATED garage. The garage gets very cold and my master bedroom and bathroom are above the garage. I am having problems with the pipes for my master bathroom freezing at night because it's getting so cold like -5 degrees F at my house. anyhow, I wanted to put some sorta of heater in the garage to 1.) keep the pipes warm on VERY cold nights and 2.) also make the garage warm so I can work in the garage, etc. I need something that is no hazadous to my health because I will be in the garage with all doors and windows closed for a couple hours at a time working on projects.
I was thinking of going with one of those wall mounted ventless propane heaters and having a 100lb propane tank installed outside my garage. I was wondering a couple things about these heaters..
1.) What is the best manufacturers to go with?
2.) I see they come in radiant heat and also flame heat models. I read that the radiant heat heats up people and objects in the room, and that the flame heat heats up the air in the room. I don't know which one is better to go with. I want something to heat up the entire garage pretty quickly.
3.) How many BTU's do you think I need for a 2 car garage. The measurements of the garage are 20' x 24' with I think a 9 foot ceiling. I would like to be able to heat the garage up to like 55-60 degrees F in like 10-15 minutes if possible.
Any help would be very much appreciated, thanks!

I would never install a ventless gas appliance.

squale,
I have to say that the use of ventless heaters won't get much support around here.
A lot of folks who are connected with the heating industry take a very dim view of these types of heaters.
In Canada and some parts of the US they are not allowed to be used because of the potential of poisoning by carbon monoxide.
I know Minnesota doesn't allow them but I'm unsure of other states.
How these things work is that under ideal conditions the flame burns with over 99% efficiency where the carbon monoxide that is emmited is within the allowable amount.
The type of safety they use measures the amount of oxygen in the air and when the oxygen begins to be depleted they shut the heater off.
In many peoples eyes this is thought to place to much empasis on people's safety with a single mechanical device.
Here is a link to a thread about ventless tent heaters but they work the same as home ones.
Another thing to consider besides safety is the fact that if this is a workshop, because these heaters also discharge a considerable amount of water vapor to the room you will be faced with rust on all your tools.
My suggestion is to install a vented heater or if you do not want to put in a chimney, an electric heater of some type may do it for you.

It would be a much wiser investment to insulate the ceiling and pipes and also the garage door, and make sure the bottom of the door has a good weather strip on it.
If it's still freezing then think of adding a heat run from your furnace to the area but no return as this could be dangerous.

okay thanks. Well the pipes unfroze and I get water again now.. Thank God!
But yeah considering these ventless propane heaters, I think I would have to put a new propane tank (100 gallon) outside my garage wall to power one of these wall unit heaters. I too am a little suspicious about the amount of carbon dioxide they put out, my friend has one of these in his basement and when it runs it sort of smells too. I think it will just be too much of a pain to even install one of these and get another propane tank, etc. Right now I heat my house with a propane tank which is a 500 gallon underground. I don't think its' a good idea to tap off of that for a ventless heater in the garage, but I could be wrong.
So then if you are talking about electric heaters, what type of heater would heat my whole garage (2 car) without needing it's own 220 volt line and raising my electric bill RIDICULOUSLY high? I think my whole garage is on a 15 amp breaker so I don't want to overload it if I can help it. I was even thinking maybe going with one of those Mr. Heater Big Buddy indoor propane heaters that are portable.. http://www.mrheater.com/productdetail.asp?id=784 What do you guys think of this thing?

You can get a slim line vented heater for the garage.
The Mr Heater is a ventless heater as well.
These ventless heater should be outlawed everywhere!
YOu also can tie into the same tank you have now underground.

what is so bad about ventless heaters? they seem to be fine, I know many people that have them in their homes and they work good and they keep them running for hours at at time with no problems

squale,
What is so bad about ventless heaters?
1. Your family could die from carbon MONOXIDE, not dioxide poisoning.
2. Your family could get sick from carbon monoxide or a lack of oxygen.
3. Your family could develop alergies or sensitivities to chemicals by breathing the allowable levels of contaminates that ARE discharged.
4. You will be adding lots of moisture to the air that will make your windows sweat, could rot the structure and cause rust on your tools.
The fact that these heaters are prohibited in Canada and a great many states should be a bit of a clue.
Another thing that I don't understand is that even though their use is prohibited in a good many places they are still allowed to sell them in those states. Plus, the mfr's are under no obligation to tell you they are prohibited.
We are really talking about a cost issue here.
I ask you, what is wrong with laying out a little more money for a proper vented heater or the proper power to run a 240 volt heater?
There are propane heaters available that only need a grill on the outside wall as opposed to a chimney.
The moisture issue is a given.
The more you run it the more moisture will condense on your tools.
Dying or getting sick is remote, but considering that governments get the stats to make the decision to ban them you.
Google search on ventless heater safety.
This is what I think anyway but what do I know.
Someone asked me if I was so smart then why ain't I rich?

very good points there.. what is the SAFEST form of heating then to put in the garage.... electric?
I have seen these big 240v electric heaters, but will these use LOTS of energy thus killing my energy bill every month?
damn... I miss my pellet stove.. lol

just out of curiosity, why don't I have that moisture problem you talk about with my normal home heating system. My house has baseboard hot water (3 zone), with a Well McLain Gold Series Propane Boiler.
It is still burning propane, and still venting outside, but I don't have any moisture issues?
also, I noticed on the back of my boiler, that the back metal cover is not on. It's just leaning up against the wall. The cover seems to have insulation connected to it. Should I put this cover back on or is it okay to leave off? I guess the prior owners might have had the boiler serviced or something before I moved in and never put the back cover on?

Greg said it all there!
Reson for your home not to have these problme that it's vented out side. The gas that been burned gives off vaper, CO, fumes, sometime ordors in the boiler stays in the heat exchanger/cell, and goes right out side up the flue pipe. Nothing is dumped into the home..
I would put this cover on.. Might of been left off by accident.
Ventless heater, all of the of the burned byproducts is dumped right into the living space.

okay concerning the cover that is off on the back of my boiler, I noticed that there is this metal big plate or soemthing that the cover goes over, and this metal is sorta rusted.. but the boiler is only 2.5 years old same as the house..

Not sure what you really got there.. Are you able to take a picture of it here for us to see?

I can't really get a camera back there I don't think
it's just the back metal panel to the WelMcClain Gold GV boiler..
is this a good boiler by the way?


Tags: good, ventless, propane, heater, garage, propane heaters, propane tank, about ventless, carbon monoxide, family could, these heaters, vented heater

Spin Problem Kenmore Clothes Washer 80 Series

Greetings, I searched the archives but didn't find this problem. My washer (Model#110.27812690) suddenly didn't spin the last load. I moved the cycle selector though diff parts of several cycles, and the motor is humming, but the barrel won't move. Is this the motor coupler, or something else. Should I buy parts from Sears, or is there a better source. I don't like their customer service. Thanks in advance!

If the washer won't spin or agitate its a good chance the coupler is broke. If the lid switch is bad your washer won't spin,
but the motor also won't hum. So I doubt the lid switch. Could also be something in the pump stalling the motor. More than likely the coupler bad. Common problem on these washers. Coupler part # 285852. Sears or do an online search for appliance parts. Everyone carries them. Dave

Hi - I was looking for the same answer... and it was the COUPLER! THANKS! A possible $200 repair or new washer turned out to be a $23 part ($10 if from Sears) with a few nasty words from hubby who had a hard time getting the cover back on!
GREAT INFO!
Thanks!

Thanks for your advice. I have a Kenmore washer with a similar problem, however, the drum will spin sometimes if I turn the agitator a bit and then re-start. Should I still suspect the coupler?
Originally Posted by dave6466
If the washer won't spin or agitate its a good chance the coupler is broke. If the lid switch is bad your washer won't spin,
but the motor also won't hum. So I doubt the lid switch. Could also be something in the pump stalling the motor. More than likely the coupler bad. Common problem on these washers. Coupler part # 285852. Sears or do an online search for appliance parts. Everyone carries them. Dave

Thanks everyone! I called a rservic repair person and they concurred on the coupler, and came and replaced it the same day for $100. A little steep for a $25 part, but hey I didn't scrape any knuckles, and laundry was underway that day! Next time, maybe I'll try the repair myslef since I watched the guy repairing it.

Originally Posted by adanek
Thanks for your advice. I have a Kenmore washer with a similar problem, however, the drum will spin sometimes if I turn the agitator a bit and then re-start. Should I still suspect the coupler?
Yes. Good chance the coupler is broke but still able to spin the drum at certain spots. Dave

Hubby ended up having to refix the washer last night after a 1/2 successful test run. He thinks he put the coupler on wrong and it slipped out of place. Working great now...
$100 isn't bad... at least you knew what might be wrong and were prepared. It is a horrible feeling to be at the mercy of a repair person who may be taking you for a RIDE. Hubby had a heck of a time getting the washer put back together the first time, I think our 6 year old learned dome new words... so the axtra $75 may have been worth not having to hassle with that. It was going to cost us $60 - $80 just to have someone come look at ours.
I love this forum! Now I am hoping hubby will take a stab at the dishwasher that quit last week (we had to replace the TV the week before, it has been a BAD month!)

We were having an issue with our washer, a small leak that I though was stemming from the spout that delivers the water into the wash basin. I took off the back and found that I was right, but I cannot get the part today. I put the washer back together but during my test run the water kept filling and then overran the washer....and it was still filling....
I opened up the washer again and found that the tube that ran from the water level selector to the bottom of the was disconnected. I reconnected it but I get the same results.
One other thing, when I move the wash knob it dosent seem to want to procede through the wash cycle on its own now...
Not sure what happened, but I could really use some help.
Thanks,
Matt

Make sure the tubing is still connected at switch tub. Run the washer on the spin cycle for a few minutes to remove any water that may have gotten into tube try the wash cycle again. The timer won't advance untill the fill switch is satisfied at the selected water level. Dave

We had a spin problem and it was the motor coupler. I replaced that and now having a problem with the water fill, it doesn't stop. Put it on small load and it keeps filling. I don't think it washes either.
But it does spin! What did I do to it? Any help?
Thanks,
Jack H.

Sounds like you might have knocked off the plastic tubing that goes up to the fill switch when you replaced coupler. Look around the outside of tub with the shell off towards bottom of tub. You should see where the tube pushes onto a fitting mounted to tub. The fill switch senses the water level shuts off water allows timer to advance to the wash cycle.

Thank you Dave, it was the tube going to the fill switch. You saved the weekend for me.
Thanks again,
Jack H.

My washing machine just stopped...agitator stuck and couldn't turn it manually. Followed advice and went to Sears for a new $15 Coupler. Replaced it and washer works great again! This site is a life saver! Thank you!
P.S. I recommend calling Sears Hardware first to ask which location sells the part.

how do i get to this coupler that seems to cause all of the problems?

Here is a link and some instructions
Here is a link to what I think your problem is
Whirpool Drive-Coupling Replacement
The only thing I do different is not to take cabinet off, I pull the machine out from wall far enough to lean it back on hoses(far enough to lean back by it's self) and work under machine. Water pump can stay on hoses and push to the left and fold hoses to stay out of way. when you reinstall motor be sure to take extra care on the way the pins line up to the holes in the rubber piece. Lots of practice takes me about 15 minutes but know every tool I will need. Give about a hour for job.

The washer makes a grinding noise, and wont spin. Pulled and check coupler, it looks ok. Motor runs, no obstructions around agitater. It will Fill/Drain FYI, I'm no pro, but with this info I'm thinking clutch or trans. How should I go about testing or determining which.

Did you take out the coupler? the newer couplers crack and look ok before you remove them.

see if the clutch disk spins on the spin cycle. if not its the coupler or the gearcase. if so its the clutch,basket drive or drive block or something stuck between the basket and the tub

Hi,
I'm having the same problem here and try to fix it myself. Anyone can suggest me where to get the how-to text/video?
Thank you in advance.

^model#? is the motor turning? is the clutch spinning(tip back and look underneath)? remove agitator and check for worn out drive block

Similar problem on my 80 series kenmore washer (mod# 11024812200) - it will fill and agitate, but it won't spin or drain. lid switch seems okay. it tries to engage but the drum won't turn. It tries, kinda makes a chunk noise, the agitator moves about an inch and then stops. the motor hums.
Does that sound like the motor coupler or something else?
Thanks!

is the clutch spinning(tip back and look underneath)? remove agitator and check for worn out drive block

Take the clips off the water pump and pull it off shaft and try to spin it now. May have something in water pump allowing motor to turn one way.

thanks for the tips. the clutch wasn't running, there was just a humming. I decided to recheck everything, so I started it again to see if the timer was actually working. it was, and this time when I let it go thru, it drained and the drum spun just fine. I pulled all kinds of material out of the tub where it drains, so I think some worn fabric pulled apart and the pieces got wrapped under the agitator. of course, my tub is now clogged...d'oh!
Once it drains, I will retest with a small load of laundry and see what happens.
Thanks for you help!

I to have a kenmore series 80 with prob. It will fill with water and start agitateing, then stop. If you wait long enough(4-5 hours) it start again and runs through the cycle. It takes 8 hours to do 1 load. When it's stopped I can't get to do anything, turn all the knobs and nothing. Any Idea's?
Steve

I just pulled the motor apart and the coupler looks good, could the thermal overload be bad? What would happen if I just jumper that out?

I would'nt jump the thermal protection. Its there for a reason.
Sounds like bad motor bearings. The longer it runs, the more the motor seizes up trips off. Takes a long time to cool off before it comes back on. To be sure its the motor you can take it off tranny pump sit it on the floor. Put machine on spin cycle let it run. I bet after a few minutes it overheats trips off. Dave

Help! first off, what a great web site and was very helpful in determining our spin problem on our Kenmore model 25842400, 80 series. After reading all questions and answers we determined that the problem was in the motor coupler, ordered, installed and now another problem. Hubby, never having had a washer apart, took it completely apart, shaft removed, put back together with new coupler, did a test in the garage, tub spins, all looks and sounds good. Bring it into the house, load in a small amount of laundry, wait.. the spin mode now makes an awful loud clangy noise and no spin. Back out to the garage, apart, back together, test, good to go. Back in house, load, same thing, seems like the spin mode wants to catch but doesn't stay going, noise is still very much there. Back out to garage, checked gear box this time, says all looks ok. Put back together, test, it spins, test again, it doesn't spin. Besides both being confused we are very frustrated. I'm sure the coupler was the original problem because as soon as it was together the first time it went to spin right away on the test, but now we either have another problem or something isn't put back together correctly. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

^possible bad gearcase. turn it to spin and see if the clutch disc is spinning and report back

well, in reference to our Kenmore model #25842400 spin problem, we were instructed to test the gearcase to see if the clutch was spinning. With the machine tipped on its back and all intact, my husband plugged it in and he watched the mechanisms while I put it in spin mode. He says that from what we can see the motor is working and the gearcase is working up to the clutch. The clutch spins but the tub does not. It also makes a loud grinding, whinning noise. Any suggestions is much appreciated.

Take out the tub I think you some how got the shaft that drive the basket out of place and it is not engaging the drive block. If that is the case you will need a new drive block and possibly a new basket drive. here is a link to the parts
KENMORE | Model #11025842400 | AUTOMATIC WASHER | BRAKE, CLUTCH, GEARCASE, MOTOR AND PUMP PARTS | SearsPartsDirect.com
#1 is basket drive
KENMORE | Model #11025842400 | AUTOMATIC WASHER | AGITATOR, BASKET AND TUB PARTS | SearsPartsDirect.com
# 15 is drive block

remove the agitator and inspect the drive block. make sure the 2 tabs from the basket drive are seated into the block

Originally Posted by landers96
I to have a kenmore series 80 with prob. It will fill with water and start agitateing, then stop. If you wait long enough(4-5 hours) it start again and runs through the cycle. It takes 8 hours to do 1 load. When it's stopped I can't get to do anything, turn all the knobs and nothing. Any Idea's?
Steve
Hi, was there a solution to this problem? I am having the EXACT same issue and am in need of help!

Read back a few reply's and check what has been suggested, Tell us what you have checked so we can help.

Originally Posted by pugsl
Here is a link and some instructions
Here is a link to what I think your problem is
Whirpool Drive-Coupling Replacement
The only thing I do different is not to take cabinet off, I pull the machine out from wall far enough to lean it back on hoses(far enough to lean back by it's self) and work under machine. Water pump can stay on hoses and push to the left and fold hoses to stay out of way. when you reinstall motor be sure to take extra care on the way the pins line up to the holes in the rubber piece. Lots of practice takes me about 15 minutes but know every tool I will need. Give about a hour for job.
I used this video, which was great for replacing the coupler. The new coupler is in but we still have an issue where the drum will spin if the load is light (i.e. just water or only a few clothes) but won't spin with a normal load. When the machine gets to the spin cycle with a normal load, it'll make a grinding noise, but the drum won't spin.
Does that mean that the clutch is bad? If so, how would I confirm this?

Hi Guys,
I own a Kennmore 80 series Washer as well. My Machine Stopped working after it filled itself with water. There is no noise what so ever to at least indicate that machine is repairable. What should I do? Please help! Thanks

^check the lid switch. post model# if you need more help

I have a Kenmore 80 series washer. All of a sudden it is making a whinning sound and the clothes keep getting tangled around the agitator. I thought that maybe it was the size of the loads but it does the same thing with small loads too. Any suggestions besides buy a new washer?

Take cabinet off, uncilp water pump and pull off shaft(leave hoses attached) jump lid switch and put washer into spin. if no whine than you need a water pump, Post model # will help

My Kenmore 80 series washer will not drain or spin. I took the cover off, took the pump off, and took the motor out and put it on the floor. The pump spins ok. The coupler seems intact. I tried to turn the motor on by putting the dial on the spin cycle and starting it....the motor hums loud, tries to spin slowly sometimes; hums, doesn't spin at all; hums, starts spinning slowly and then something inside the motor catches and it spins normally. The motor gets very hot during the times that it fails to spin normally...Do I need a new motor? Could this be a problem with the timer/electronics? TIA


Tags: spin, problem, kenmore, clothes, washer, series, drive block, back together, spin cycle, washer spin, basket drive, enough lean

Remove Kohler Shower Faucet

Have a leaking showerhead so I am trying to replace cartridge in a single handle Kohler faucet but cannot find a way to get the handle off. The cap on the handle is fixed with no notch like our matching Kohler sink handle caps. There are no other visible screws just the notch on the bottom of the face plate where it meets the wall. Tried to pry from there but it doesn't budge. See attached pictures, any ideas? Thanks in advance.

The white cap on the face of the handle should unscrew.

That did it, it actually did have a notch to pop off. Twisting it exposed the opening. Thanks!

They are a PITA to repair. And wait until you see the price... Ugggg.
Dont want to bring you upsetting news. Make sure you replace the balance spool too along with the cartridge.

You are right those parts were expensive! So I replaced the mixer and cartridge and I would say the leak got worse. This video helped a lot.
Bathtub Faucet - YouTube
However I have the same amount of leaking with the old and new parts. Had a plumber out and he said the valve needs to be replaced. I apparently have a type B Kohler faucet and he recommends Moen. Having this replaced, yikes... Does this seem logical?

Not logical at all.
The bodys rarely go bad. Possibly you did not install the o rings correctly. Or you failed to remove the old ones. they get stuck in the body and need to pick them out.


Tags: remove, kohler, shower, faucet, Kohler faucet

Oil Furnace Cleaning

Hello,
I have a Williams oil furnace I need to clean.I can't afford to pay to have it done ,it's all I can do to pay for the fuel.I would like to change the nozzle and filter on the tank for starters,I know do that much but, what else needs to be done ?I know to change the air filter.
Also can anyone give me info on chimney cleaning or what to look for in that area ?
I have more time than money.
Thanks

If you can host some pics of the furnace with the front door removed, I can probably tell you get into the heat exchanger to clean it. If you have a Suntec or Danfoss fuel pump, there is a screen inside the pump cover which should be changed along with the filter nozzle.

You can do most of it youself, but only thing you won't have is a tester to test the draft and smoke.
With fuel price going pretty high this winter, I would say be best to spend a few extra bucks to save $100's on heating bills..
If the fire is not tested, you maybe wasting more hot fire up the flue pipe, and not in your home.
Check around for deals from dealer who KNOWS oil. or an oil dealer who can just do the smoke/draft test for you.

Thank you gentlemen,
I'll try to get pictures if I can. Meanwhile I'll check around on finding someone to do the smoke draft.
Will try to post soon, most likely later next week.
Thanks again,

Hello again,
I have taken the pump /heat exchanger out and removed the nozzle and am about to put the new one in.But I have noticed a lot of black sut all over the end of the pump/heat exchanger .Any idea what causes it to get so thick .My guesss not being cleaned in a long time ?? Any how ,shut off electric to furnance removed nozzle and cleaned prongs and am ready to put back together.What else do I need to clean before I go any futher? I don't want to have to take it apart again. Also should I clean the exuaste pipe as well ??

Before you install the new nozzle, be sure to change the filter pump screen (if applicable) flush at least 1/2 gallon of oil thru the system. Also flush out the assembly the nozzle goes into using carb or brake cleaner or some other solvent. Failure to do all of this could easily result in a crapped up new nozzle.
The solvent can also be used to clean the electrodes. The use of solvents should be done outdoors because of fumes potential flammability.
The soot could be due to lack of cleaning but could also be an indication of a cracked heat exchanger. I strongly urge you to have a pro go over your heater.

Question ,will I be able to see if the heat exchanger is cracked and if so can I repair it ? Also please tell me if the heat exchanger is a part hooked on the pump or is it a chamber within the furnace ? I have seen diagrams that show heat exchanger as chamber within furnace ,but have seen picture of tube like part called heat exchanger ??

The heat exchanger is basicly the furnace less cabinet, burner, blower.
It is not repairable. You may or may not be able to see the crack(s) if they are there. Sometimes it takes complete disassembly to find the crack, other times they are quite obvious to the trained eye.

I did some research and got a better understanding of what a heat exchanger is.What I found was If you use a flashlight inside of the heat exchanger you can usaly see most hole or cracks I will try that and see what I come up with.If you have any other thoughts I welcome all the help I can get.

Most oil fired furnaces have an inner outer heat exchanger. Only the inner can be inspected thru the burner opening.

http://www.freepoolheat.com/oil.html
This might help you some and to what Grady has said, check and clean the blower wheel in the burner for sure also. Crack in the heat exchanger hard to find sometimes. you need to heat the furnace . Then put in a smoke bomb. This will tell you for sure if you have a leak. For the soot in it get whats call Chimney Sweep works great.
But I have noticed a lot of black sut all over the end of the pump/heat exchanger .Any idea what causes it to get so thick .My guesss not being cleaned in a long time ?? Any how ,shut off electric to furnance removed nozzle and cleaned prongs and am ready to put back together.What else do I need to clean before I go any futher? I don't want to have to take it apart again.
Could be that the nozzle is not set right to the cone there on the burner airtube. Now you have to gap and set the electrods to the nozzle , check the pump psi, draft over the fire. stack temp and Co2. AND yes you should clean out the smoke pipe from the furnace to the flue.
ED

I am not familiar with this product. If it is a stick or powder you toss into the combustion chamber, do not use it if the furnace has a fiber combustion chamber. It will destroy the chamber. If the furnace has a fire clay chamber, ok. It is still not a replacement for a brush vacuum cleaner. Also, if there is a heavy build up of soot, soot sticks can cause uncontrolable heat destroy an otherwise good heat exchanger.

Thanks again for the insight .I'm still thinking most of the soot came from not being cleaned in years.Which probably explains the heavy soot and the coning of the nozzle as well. I'll clean and check everything and see how it goes .Here is something I was thinking on.If the heat exchanger had a hole in it wouldn't it blow some of that soot into the air vents ?just a thought .Also ED mentioned gapping the electrods .What are they supposed to be set at ? my nozzle is a .75 80 degree A .It was working when I took it apart and I did't move the electrods .If I need to regap them where can I get that info. I'm sure I'll need model# and all that stuff?

Go to that www I gave you It will talk about set everything on the burner. Be sure and get a NEW nozzle there. Dont just try and clean it
ED

Thanks ED, I did buy new nozzle and filter.Also went to web site today and checked it out ,got what I needed concerning electrod adjustment.
Have another question though; Does the electrodes still carry 10 k volts even after electric is disconected from them ?

Once the power off there is no danger from the electrodes.


Tags: furnace, cleaning, heat exchanger, being cleaned, need clean, pump heat, pump heat exchanger, removed nozzle, apart again, back together, back together What, back together What else, back together What else need

Legally Copying Movies From Vhs To Dvd

I considered this more of a computer question because of the knowledge possibly needed to answer this question. Surely I can't be alone in this issue...
I have lots of older VHS movies that I want to convert to DVD because we travel so much now and want to take them with us. So I bought (from Costco) a VHS/DVD-RW unit that is designed to copy one format to the other. Problem is every time I put my a VHS into it and try it, it says that the tape is copy protected and will not let me do it!!!! ARGH!! My understanding is that what I want to do is perfectly legal. These copies are for MY use. The VHS tapes are trash when I am done; nobody would want VHS anymore anyway to worry about selling them if I wanted to!
Is there a way around this? What about a separate player to connect to the DVD-RW? I'll be getting my new computer in a week or two and it will also have a DVD-RW on it; will that hook up to the VHS player and go around this?
Any ideas or other advice is welcome. What I want to do is perfectly legal, isn't it?

If you are trying to do it legally than you are wasting your time because it is illegal to copy any movie. Thats what copyright laws are for. Any movie that you buy from a store will be copy protected.

It is not illegal to make a backup copy of a movie or a CD or anything else even if it is copyrighted, as long as the copy is for your own use. The courts in the US have stated this again and again.
Now that doesn't mean that the manufacturer can't use means to make it difficult to copy the media, and of course they do.

if you have, or can get from a friend, a vcr, you can try hooking it to the dvd if it has the connections. might work, and the older the vcr the better probably.
if you are getting a new computer, you would need a video capture card, or a video card that has the options to capture video.
how to:
http://video-editing-software-review...hs-to-dvd.html

You will run into copy protection roadblocks even with video capture cards. I know because I often have to copy tapes to our education server at work, and I have never had any success copying Macrovision protected tapes.
There are capture cards that can bypass Macrovision. I believe Canopus makes one, but it is not cheap. I have read of devices that can bypass Macrovision, but I can't say whether or not they are legal to buy :shrug:

I had success a few years ago copying macrovision protected tapes by playing them on a 20 year old vcr I stole from my parents when I bought them a newer one. I never could figure out why that worked.

The circuitry that the Macrovision signal is meant to confuse (AGC or automatic gain control) is absent in most older VCRs.

Yes. Like Racraft said, it is legal to make one backup copy for yourself as long as it's for your own use.
I do it all the time with my old videos.
The vast majority of my stuff can be copied over to DVD, but I have found that alot of the newer videos do have some protections and will not let me.
Good luck.

Originally Posted by assemblo
If you are trying to do it legally than you are wasting your time because it is illegal to copy any movie. Thats what copyright laws are for. Any movie that you buy from a store will be copy protected.
I'm surprised you haven't deleted this post yet. All three sentences are wrong and misleading. I thank the others for their informative posts.
The first movie I copied over using my new device was my tape of Star Wars Episode I. It worked flawlessly. However, all my other tapes so far have had this copy protection, I still don't know why the one Star Wars tape didn't, all the other Star Wars tapes did, go figure.
I also now have one of the two laptops we are going to buy. My wife and I will each have one for use and travel. We can afford this because we choose to live a lifestyle of living in a paid-for travel trailer in between our 6-month foreign assignments and during this time we make some decent income as electricians and weldors. Anyway, my wife just got a new HP widescreen laptop with a DVD burner. My Toshiba Tablet PC with DVD burner is in the mail. What are the best ways to hook up a VCR/DVD player to our laptops? We will also want a TV tuner for the laptops as well; will this be the same device? Any recommendations from personal experiences? I would prefer a USB connection, as only the HP has a PCMCIA slot.
I've seen some boxes that claim macrovision removal for between $70 and $120 so far. Anyone have experience with these? Looks like to use them, I won't be able to use my all-in-one VCR/DVD, though, since I'd need cables to put the box in between the two devices.
Only the guys that want to cheat and break the law can afford to do this and make the hassle worth it, huh? That figures, too.

what is the brand/model of your combo vcr/dvd?

Originally Posted by tae
what is the brand/model of your combo vcr/dvd?
It's a Daewoo DVD Recorder/VCR, Model DVRS04/DVRS05, from Costco.

Sorry,but it looks like that one may not be able to do it. alot of dvd players are hackable, meaning that you can either access hidden menu options to turn things on or off, like macrovision, or you can update the firmware, usually downloading a file and burning it to dvd,and then playing it in the dvd player.
you can look here:http://www.videohelp.com/dvdplayers....Search=Search
for a list of players that can be hacked and alot of great info including how to's.
I would find a decent dvd burner for probably the same or less than those boxes, and hack it.
here's some faqs about macrovision:http://www.dvddemystified.com/dvdfaq.html#1.11
Macrovision creates problems for most TV/VCR combos

You know that little tab\hole on the front of the tape, ya put a piece of masking tape on that.
had the same problem with mine
Welcome


Tags: legally, copying, movies, copy movie, copy protected, Star Wars, your time, afford this, also have, around this

install-a-backup-sump-pump

We have had 2 separate sump pumps fail on us and ruin our basement rec-room. I want to install a second pump as a backup and plug it into a battery backup as well. My thought is to attach another outgoing pipe from the second sump pump to the existing set up. I'm assuming that I will need to add a check value to each of the lines before the two join together.
Can anyone comment on this?
Thanks.

Yes. You will need another check valve to keep the water from the secondary from going back into the primary.
It is hard to describe exactly how you do it, other than a wye connection into the discharge line.
The next one I do I will take pics in stages,,,,,,that way I can use it for future reference.
I have done quite a few in the past few years,,,,,You need some long plastic cable ties to strand all the wires (3) out of harms way as you come out of the pit.
Dangling wires are nothing but problems down the road......can hinder proper operation of the float switch as well.

Planning on doing the same thing myself,
Call Pioneer Basement or Basement technology for a battery back-up pump quote and they will mail you the quote with a diagram that is helpful for doing it yourself. I was about to post a thread myself to see if anyone has used the Basement Watchdog pump and which they would recommend.

Can anyone recommend a good battery backup sump pump that will also operate when the power is on if the main pump fails -- that is, I want to backup both against a power failure and a pump failure. I know Basement Watchdog makes one, it is quite expenseive (about $500 with battery etc). The cheaper models only work if the power goes out, but won't work if the power is on and the main sump pump fails. Do any of the other names mentioned here -- Pioneer Basement, Basement Technology -- have this kind of pump? Any other ecommendations? Thanks.

I would stick with the watchdog; worth every penny and the economy setups won't guarantee a dry basement.
That is why they are cheaper.

I did something a little different. My neighbor has had numerous basement floods when his backup sump pump batteries expired after about a day of steady operation during a power failure. So I bought a backup sump pump at Home Depot that runs off city water pressure. I plumbed a T into the cold water line and installed a shutoff valve, then ran a heavy-duty hose via the appropriate couplers to the inlet of the pump. The pump sits at the bottom of the sump basket beside the primary pump, but has a float switch much higher.
So if the power fails, as it often does during spring or summer storms, the basket fills a little higher but then the secondary/backup pump kicks in. I've been without power plenty of times, but I've NEVER been without city water pressure.
Since it is a backup pump, I also have battery-operated water alarms inside the sump backet (to alert me of primary pump failure) as well as a floating water alarm sitting on the floor right outside the sump basket. It seems like a good plan, and so far, it's worked perfectly.

Barmats,
Thanks for the suggestion. I have never heard of a water pressure operated sump pump, and no one in Home Depot ever suggested it. Where in Home Depot do they keep it (which department?). Do you have a manufacturer name, model no etc? Thanks for the help.

Originally Posted by boxer
Can anyone recommend a good battery backup sump pump that will also operate when the power is on if the main pump fails -- that is, I want to backup both against a power failure and a pump failure. I know Basement Watchdog makes one, it is quite expenseive (about $500 with battery etc). The cheaper models only work if the power goes out, but won't work if the power is on and the main sump pump fails. Do any of the other names mentioned here -- Pioneer Basement, Basement Technology -- have this kind of pump? Any other ecommendations? Thanks.
I disagree with your comment on backup models not working in certain situations. Battery backup models should also work even if there is no power outage. A decent battery backup system will have it's own separate on/off float mechanism that will engage the pump motor when water reaches that level in the pit (typically at a higher on/off level than your primary). A water powered system sounds good because it requires no battery and works off of city pressure, however bear in mind this may take more work to tap into your city water lines and running copper pipe. It also requires a decent amount of line pressure to be effective. If not installed correctly, a water powered system will leak....and it is under pressure. A neighbor of mine had one fail and ended up with 6 FEET of water in the basement.
My preferred brand of backup systems are from Zoeller.

I was just about to embark on this same project, and my plan was to install a second pump in the pit and hook it up to a standard universal power supply (UPS) like you might buy for a computer. Most of them are designed to run a computer for at least 30 min. continuosly which should give at least an hour of run time for a half-way efficient pump, and most of them cost less than a $100. With the back up float set a little higher than the primary, a check valve to make sure that it doesn't back flow, and some type of alarm rigged up, I figure I can have a reliable back up for less than $200.
The water supplied pump sounds like a good idea but for those of us on a well, it obviously wouldn't work.

That idea works and is cost effective, but insurance companies will not foot the bill for a device that wasn't bought/sold/distributed as a protective assembly to protect from water damage due to primary failure.
It saves money and I'm sure it will work, but insurance companies are notorious for their exclusions. If they inspect and see a setup that isn't normal or manufactured that way, they will be inclined to reason the product as unreliable and most likely the reason for failure.


Tags: install, backup, sump, pump, sump pump, backup sump, backup sump pump, battery backup, power main, pump fails, that will, work power, Basement Basement, Basement Watchdog

garage-door-insulation

Does anyone know insulate a garage door? On YourNewHouse I saw where Al Carrell said to cut styrofoam to fit the sections on a garage door but he didn't say where to find the styrofoam. At HomeDepot there is a blue high density foam that is 1/2 inch thick and the regular white styrofoam that is 1/2 inch thick. My neighbor has what looks like 2 inch thick foam in his door but it was installed with foam already in it. Would the thin stuff work the same? It's so thin it would have to be glued on to keep it from falling out. What kind of adhesive would glue foam to metal permanently?

Hello Terry:
I have an idea here for whatever my two cents is worth.
Since your neighbor already has insulation in the door, it was thus made for the door manufacturer by a subcontracting company or by the door manufacturer.
Your not likely to get styrofoam in a thickness to fit exactly. You might try looking in a craft shop or fabric store however.
You may substitute using wall insulation. Then cover the exterior with thin and cut to size wood paneling using sheet metal screws with washers to secure the paneling to the frame.
Of course you will have to drill small starter holes for the screws to enter.
This also adds a customized look to the inside of the door should it face into a converted garage.
If a converted garage was the intention here, this makes for a great weekend project that you will also be proud of for years to come.
Once the project is completed, should you choose this idea, relax and have a beer!
Good Luck Happy Holidays.
------------------
Sincerely,
TomBartco Enterprises.
Trade:
Natural Gas Energy Consultant Technician.
Appliance Service Repairs Rep.
Vocation:
Saw Tool Sharpening.
Accurate Power Equipment Company.
E-Mail:
TomBartco@doityourself.com
Personal Quote:
Drive Safely.
The Life You Save
May Be Your Own.

Terry:
Yes, Home Depot won't have 2 insulation. If
you had a large lumber yard they would probably have 1 or 2. You can achieve the same thing by gluing 1/2 foam together. You
can use PL 200 glue. It comes in a tube like calk. Make sure you get the glue. You
cab also use liquid nails. Just cut to size glue. Lots of people do this everyday, all over the country. It is not a problem.
Good Luck, Jack the Contractor

I just done this to my door, got it at Home Depot. I got the 1 1/2 panels. The only bad thing about them is the color (PINK). Has made a big change in the temp inside the garage. I also insultated the ceiling of the garage.

Yeas, the polystyrene panels come in a variety of standard thicknesses from 1/4 -2 and is commonly used when folks get stuck with a non insulated overhead door.
As an option to cover the unsightly ink you can get thin vinyl sheets and cut them to fit each individual section and either bend them to friction fit into each section of the panel or cut them so they can be riverted over top of the panel section. You could also opt to use a thicker gauge aluminum panel commonly available at many stock car supply house 2'x5' sheets often sell for about $25/sheet. Even coil stock could be used, the material they use to wrap the wood around windows and doors when siding.

I used to be in the garage door business, and have insulated many doors. Look at your door and determine who the manufacturer is, and see if the installation company left their name on the door . Also measure the overall width and height of the door. Look in your yellow pages under doors and try to find the installing company or one who installs your brand door. They should have in it stock, or should be able to order what you need. It will not be cheap, but it will leave you with a professional looking insulation job.
However, be very careful when doing any work with a garage door. Most folks do not really understand the mechanics and operation of garage doors. That ignorance has caused many serious injuries, and even deaths! That's why manufacturers have had to plaster new doors with a half dozen warning lables. Also remember that any additional weight you add to the door will affect the counterbalance of the springs, which in turn will affect the operation of the garage door opener.

Originally Posted by Bigdave5
However, be very careful when doing any work with a garage door. Most folks do not really understand the mechanics and operation of garage doors. That ignorance has caused many serious injuries, and even deaths! That's why manufacturers have had to plaster new doors with a half dozen warning lables. Also remember that any additional weight you add to the door will affect the counterbalance of the springs, which in turn will affect the operation of the garage door opener.
My thoughts exactly. I have been trying to figure out insulate my thin garage door. Since the garage is unheated and I have a living room above (townhouse), not to mention I don't think the building insulated the wall between the garage and entry hallway, it always feels cold. I think if I can insulate the garage door,it would help some. My question about the styrofoam is fire code issues. Isn't it considered a combustible material and should not be left unfaced without some sort of fire protection (drywall, etc.)? For that reason, I have steered away from it. I bought and will install soon some radiant barrier foil insulation. I have seen this on several websites, but haven't heard from anyone who has actually done it to see if it works well or is a waste of money. This would add very little weight to the garage door and be fire safe, so hopefully it works. any thoughts on the radiant barrier idea?
Thanks,
Neil

For all practical purposes, the radiant blanket/paper is a waste of your time and money installing. Even insulating the door itself will not be a cure all, the fact still remains you have a big METAL object in an unheated space and just like big windows it will radiant the cold regardless because even the foam board will become cold too. If heating than it's a different scenario since the insulation will make a barrier between hot inside/cold outside and become a cushion. Ultimately I'd focus more on weather stripping and window/door seal above everything else to help limit/prevent air/wind infiltration.
I would not be too concerned about the combustibilty factor. Look at commonly installed overhead doors-polystyrene insulation due to light weight and many have vinyl backers to cover that for a nice look on the inside. For the time/money your going to put into this thing go with the polystyrene and just buy/make panels to cover each section and either rivet or friction fit them into place-looks nice and adds r value which the radiant paper will not-I dont care what they claim.
High end doors will cover the internal side with steel.

Thanks for the reply. I have heard several opinions, such as yours, that state either it is great or a waste of money. I should add that I plan to add a radiant cove heater at the front of the garage to provide some heat in there since I tend to work on my second car during the winter. The radiant foil wasn't too expensive, it will be about $50 to do the whole door. I may add the foam insulation behind that to increase the R-value. My thoughts are that the foam will impede heat transfer and the foil will block the radiant heat and direct it back into the garage from the cove heater.
Thanks for the reply,
Neil
P.S. I have been going around and trying to seal any crack that I can find, both outside the house and between the house and garage.

Great thread… I did a bit of research on the web and a 16’ garage door (from one vendor) could be insulated via a kit for ~$175.00, however… doing the Home Depot thing with the ѕ” ‘pink stuff’… I was able to get enough of the panels to do each door sections with two (double thick) for a fraction over$100.00.
Two additional bits of info. that I discovered along the way… the adhesive which is recommended by polystyrene is not PL-200…. But PL-300.
Probably everyone else knows this… but when trying to cut the big pink panels down to size with a small saw or corrugated knife blade works… but Oh the pink saw-dust!... what I finally discovered was that if you measure and draw a line on the panel and then take a knife and ‘score’ that line about ј” deep… that you can ‘snap’ the panels along that line and get a clean edge quickly without a lot of debris at the same time.
Hope this helps…

lots of ideas here. i just insulated my fiberglass door. it's single layer with no insulation. i was going to use 1/2 foam with foil shield however i found another product with a higher R value. foam WITH foil 1/2 is R-3.3 the stuff i found was at homedepot, it comes on a roll and it looks like bubble wrap covered with foil. it's R value is R-4.
if you had enough depth, you could use both. make sure there is foil side on inside and outside withthe exposed foam in the middle. this was east to install as i just cut it to length and folded over the top and bottom and slid it in so the door framing holds it in place. seems to work good. way better than what i had and it only cost $40.00 for 7'x16' door

This is what I used on My garage doors and it works great easy installation cut to fit and I used Liquid Nails to secure and then I used Great Stuff around the edges to fill in the gaps...

Great posts and ideas.
One concern I have is condensation build-up between the insulation and the metal. On humid days when the inside is cooler than the outside, you can get a significant condensate build-up on the metal, especially of you live in the humid south. I assume that if you don't make an airtight seal with the insulation and glue, then, the condensate can evaporate as the metal begins to heat up. So, maybe its not a problem if the seal isn't airtight. My concern would be corrosion of the metal in time if the condensate becomes trapped. Any thoughts?

Non issue...most doors with exposed insulation on the interior are not sealed that tightly, as you said. No reason for it, you will still get some heat loss through the stiffening braces and the exposed edges of the panels. On double wall panels, there is a thermal break between the inner and outer skins, and most use a foamed in place insulation or solid polystyrene.
Also, panels are galvanized and primed, even on the interior...some also have the same topcoat as the exterior, and if the paint surface isn't damaged, rusting shouldn't be an issue.

Originally Posted by Biomechanic
the stuff i found was at homedepot, it comes on a roll and it looks like bubble wrap covered with foil. it's R value is R-4 ... seems to work good. way better than what i had and it only cost $40.00 for 7'x16' door
Do you by any chance have a product name for this please Biomechanic? We're only renting, but I can't leave my 6yo son in a hot bedroom for another 2 years because the garage door isn't insulated (his bedroom's above the garage), so $40 I'm happy to pay!!

I'm sure he was talking about something like this. If you look at lach's post I believe its in the title.
Reflective - Insulation - Building Materials at The Home Depot

Thanks Gunguy45, I'll be very close to a Home Depot tomorrow, so I'll check it out then!


Tags: garage, door, insulation, garage door, Home Depot, operation garage, will affect, doors with, garage doors, inch thick, looks like

Covering Up Speaker Wire

any suggestions on cover speaker wire for my home theater system...instead of drilling into walls, etc.........thanks!!!

If you can't run it parallel to the ceiling joists, I've seen crown molding used to cover up surround speaker wire. Fish the wires inside the wall between the studs to the ceiling level, then run it on the outside of the wall to where you want the speaker. When all is set get some crown molding you like and nail it in place over the wires.

You can also buy baseboards that have a channel for wire. another option is to use the Monster wire that is paintable. Run it along top of the baseboards/trim and just repaint so it will blend in.

Hardware stores also sell different size plastic or metal conduit that you can run along the walls or ceiling. Just check your local Lowe's or Home Depot. Here are a couple links with different types of conduit.
http://www.hometech.com/techwire/resigard.html
http://www.wiretrakusa.com/products.htm
Mike
That's the saltiest thing I ever tasted, and I once ate a big heaping bowl of salt.

In addition to the suggestions already given, you may also want to consider the following flat, self-adhesive speaker wire tape which can be made invisible under paint or joint compound. See this URL:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=100-015

when i ran all my wires from the attic i drilled a hole in the corner of the room,then got a pvc pipe that the wires fit in.my walls are dark green so i painted the pipe dark green to match and the small clips to hold it in he corner are matched to.


Tags: speaker, wire, speaker wire, crown molding, dark green

Basement Window Replacement Metal Frame

Can someone please tell me the best way to install a replacement window in the basement. I have The builder specials there now. These are the single pane glass inside of a metal frame. I am told i need to take the frame out by some and others to just frame inside the metal frame with 1 bys pressure treated wood. The opening inside the metal frame is 31 1/4 by 16 1/2. The stock windows are 31 by 15 for a hopper or 32 by 15 for the slider from home depot/lowes. The window measurements are 31 3/4 by 15 slider and 30 3/4 by 15 hopper. I would rather the slider window which if i cut the outside edges of the vynyl i can probably snugly fit inside the metal frame. What is the best method and most economical? I am told the right way would be to remove the metal frame and frame out in PT wood. Others have said that the metal frame is mortatred in the poured foundation wall and is a real pain in the a$$ to remove. Please help. I want to finish this basement asap. Thanks.

hi
read this thread
http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=211258
pg

Pgtek, SO if it is into the cement, i can take them out? IM a little confused. I read other posts that says not to take the metal out but to build a PT wood frame inside and order a window to fit inside that frame. I want to do it the right way first and only once. Please anyone advise. Thanks.

hi
yes you can take the metal frame out.
you will need a reciprical saw and a metal blade.
and if the opening is to big you will need to make a box
But you could leave it there and get a window to fit the opening
good luck
pg

Hi Not2skilled!
I had a thread about this exact thing a couple of weeks ago. Estimates to have it done ran 250-300 per window, installation only, and I have 5 windows to do. I think I am looking at the same replacement windows you are. I wouldn't cut the vinyl to fit, order them to fit your opening! HD says it only takes two weeks.
I did finally get some good advice from a friend of mine who supervises housing construction. He says they never embed the window frames in the concrete for exactly this reason. ANYWAY, he says to just take out the exisitng slider and make a new frame inside the metal frame that's left. I'm thinking I can use my table saw or router to cut slots in the wood to fit over the lips of the frame and get it nice and smooth and square. I'm thinking of using a ramset to attach the new wood frame through the metal and into the concrete. Then I'll measure the new opening and order the windows to fit and I can just screw them into the new wood frame and caulk all around. I should be good to go.
I figure I'll dry fit one first, order the windows and make all of the pieces while the windows are on order. Then when they come in I'm ready to go.
Let us know how your's work out!
Good luck,
Tom

Hey Tom,
I think im going to remove the frame. From what it looks, The top and the sides look like they will caome out pretty easily. In one window, the top is already pretty lose and when the hvac guys were down in the basement the one guy said you can take the top out and then the left and right sides should fold in. Or maybe use the sawzall to cut the metal pins. I might try that and possibly leave the bottom frame there. The home dpot sliders 32 x 15 will fit in perfectly with a 1/4 inch gap and both sides that ill fill with caulking and then secure with either concrete screws or tap cons. Let me know how yours come out and ill let you know about mine. Thanks.

Not2 -
Yeah - I'd be really interested to see how yours comes out. Can you take some pictures? I hope to start mine next week. I can take some and even have a place to post if you're interested.
I'll keep monitoring this thread.
Tom

Sounds good, ill take some before and after. I dont have a site but i can post them somewhere or email them. thanks again.


Tags: basement, window, replacement, metal, frame, metal frame, inside metal, inside metal frame, frame inside, take some, wood frame, frame inside metal, frame inside metal frame, order windows

20 Amp Breaker + 8/3 Electrical Wire + 110v Outlet

Weird question. Is it possible to use have a 20 amp breaker at an electrical panel connected to an 8/3 gauge electrical wire that is hooked up to a 110v outlet?
The scenario is this. I am doing a kitchen renovation. There was an old electric stove/oven that was powered by a 50 amp breaker connected to a 8/3 electrical wire that was hooked up to a 220v outlet. We are changing out the electric stove for a gas stove, so I only need a 20 amp breaker and a 110v outlet to the new stove for powering the stove lights and ignition for the gas stove.
Soooooo, I'd like to save the long run of 8/3 wire which is already ran through the attic, and just change to a 20 amp breaker at the panel and a 110v outlet behind the new gas stove. What do you think? Is this ok to do?

Is it possible to use have a 20 amp breaker at an electrical panel connected to an 8/3 gauge electrical wire that is hooked up to a 110v outlet?
No because residential voltage is 120 volts. Any wie size #12 or larger can be used on a 20 amp breaker. The main problem is #8 may not fit the terminals even on a side wired or back wired receptacle.In that case you have to pigtail to smaller wire. The second one which may make it a no go is that there is either no white wire for neutral and/or no green or bare wires for ground. Some older 3 wire setups for stove can be very funky and not have all the correct colored wires and in this case you can not redesignate wires smaller than #6. Aluminum would be the third yellow flag
Don't you have a counter top receptacle near the stove you can use. A lot simpler.

I agree with Ray. Just tap off the 20 amp countertop circuit.

I really, really want to make this work. The reason is because the nearest outlet that I would normally branch off of for electricity is not in the best location for doing electrical work. Also, all the drywall is up so I'd rather not have to do any drywall patching later on, but I have to admit. One of the primary reasons for not wanting to pull electricity off the nearest outlet is that I know it has been wired weirdly through the attic. And I honestly don't want to go up there if I have another option to do this. We have had about 40 days so far in 100+ degree heat here in Texas. It feels like twice as hot in the attic!
So, without further adieu here is my easiest solution. There is already an 8/2 line there. I accidentally wrote that it was 8/3 in the title and initial post. It is actually an 8/2 wire. I just checked. There is a black, white (neutral), and copper (ground) wire. If I had to I could pigtail some smaller wires to the current ones. And the 8/2 wire is the standard Romex kind, it is not aluminum. So, yes? Or no? Is this still possible, 20 amp breaker + 8/2 wire + 110v outlet?

Yes it is possible. The current breaker should have a white wire and a black wire. The white wire will be moved to the neutral bar. The black will go to the new 20 amp single pole breaker. The bare will remain as connected. The receptacle will be 120 volts not 110. It should be GFCI.

Putting a GFCI outlet behind the stove is going to be impossible to get to in the event that I need to reset it. Could I just get a new 20 amp breaker at the panel, and have the breaker GFCI protected?

Putting a GFCI outlet behind the stove is going to be impossible to get to in the event that I need to reset it. Could I just get a new 20 amp breaker at the panel, and have the breaker GFCI protected?
Sure, you could buy a 20 amp GFCI breaker. Another option would be to use a regular 20A 1P breaker and run the circuit through a GFCI receptacle at the panel to provide the GFCI protection behind the range.
BTW, the 8-2 W/G NM cable was never a legal installtion for the former electric stove.

What is illegal about the way the wire was formerly run? There used to be an electric stove there, and my understanding is that the old 8/2 Romex with ground wire was what was appropriate.
And does NEC require that stove outlets be GFCI protected. I really don't see the point in that. The stove is nowhere near water.

It needed to be 6-3. Stove wiring is 120/240. 8-2 is good only for 240 at 40 amps.. So the wire was too small for the breaker and there weren't enough wires. No it did not need to be GFCI,

What is illegal about the way the wire was formerly run? There used to be an electric stove there, and my understanding is that the old 8/2 Romex with ground wire was what was appropriate.
And does NEC require that stove outlets be GFCI protected. I really don't see the point in that. The stove is nowhere near water.
Yep, ray hit it. An electric range/stove circuit is 120/240 volt and you don't have a neutral in 8-2 W/G NM cable for the 120 volts. The way it was wired you were probably using the bare ground wire as a current carrying neutral which never has been allowed. And, like ray also said, the 8-2 W/G NM cable was only good for 40 amps.
A 120/240 volt stove/range circuit does not need to be GFCI protected, but if you convert the circuit to 120 volts, it will need to be GFCI protected.

OMG! I'm an idiot, or blind. I just rechecked the old line and it actually isn't an 8-2 electrical wire. It is an 8-3 wire, just as I had initially wrote in the title of my post. Sorry for the confusion.
I guess then, would the way it was wired... With an 8/3, how is that illegal? I also understand that some commercial electric ranges use a 6/3 wire, but if I am not mistaken don't most home electric ranges use an 8/3 wire?

They use 8-3 but the breaker can not exceed 40a. You said a 50 amp breaker. It can still be used as you planned. Just cap the red on both ends.

ray2047, oh geez. You are right. An 8-3 wire would use a max of a 40 amp breaker, while a 6-3 wire would use a 50 amp breaker. It was o so incredibly hot up in that attic I may have written down the wrong info about the wires and breaker. I think I am going to possibly convert this larger capacity outlet to a standard outlet.
In general, what is the biggest electrical wire (ex 6-3, 8-3,10-3) that can be used in a standard outlet? I'm wondering if even a 6-3 wire can be used in a standard outlet, and if so, how can the wires even fit into a standard sized electrical box?

Probably #10 is the largest and then only with receptacles that are back wired or side wired. You will need to use pigtails. You probably already have a 4X4 box. You will probably need to use a single gang mud ring on it or a receptacle plate with three holes for device screws if you use a 4x4 box.

Obviously you'll have to pigtail smaller wires to the #8 conductors you already have. I don't think I'd even try to use anything larger than #12 pigtails.

Ok thanks guys. This has been very helpful.
Assuming I have an 8-3 elec cable, or even a 6-3 elec cable, and I pigtail some 12-2 elec cable and connectors on there... And then I use a 4x4 box for adequate space for the wires... Do you think I might then be able to use standard side-wired receptacles? I don't like the back-wired ones, just personal preference.
Also, in the event that I, god forbid, have a 6-3 cable I want to use in a standard outlet, do you think it would fit in a 4x4 box?

You should be able to install a single gang plaster ring on the 1900 box.
A standard 4x4x1 1/2 deep box only has capacity for 4 #6s or 21 cubic inches. A 2 1/2 deep box has 30.3 cubic inches. The plaster ring will add some capacity.

I don't like the back-wired ones, just personal preference.
Yes, but are you confusing backstabbed with back wired?
Also, in the event that I, god forbid, have a 6-3 cable I want to use in a standard outlet, do you think it would fit in a 4x4 box?
Yes, if it is deep enough.
Tags: breaker, electrical, wire, 110v, outlet, GFCI protected, 110v outlet, electric stove, standard outlet, electrical wire, event that, ground wire, have breaker, that stove

What Oil Should I Put In My 2001 Harleydavidson Clutch Case

Harley-Davidson used two distinctly different clutch lubrication methods in their 2001 models, and they fall into either the Sportster or Big-Twin categories. Big-Twin clutches are lubricated by the primary chaincase lubricant in the primary drive chaincase. This fluid is a different formula and is kept segregated from the transmission lubricant. Sportster models use a common lubricant for the primary chaincase and transmission. The lubricant is free to flow between the two components. Using the improper lubricant for the application, or overfilling the primary, can lead to poor shifting performance, clutch drag, and an unsafe riding condition.

Sportster

The Sportster primary and transmission holds 32 ounces of Harley-Davidson Sport-Trans Fluid, part number 98854-96. Hold the bike upright and level, on level ground. Remove the clutch inspection cover from the primary chaincase. Add fluid until the level reaches the bottom of the dark-colored clutch diaphragm spring. Do not overfill. Install the cover and torque the screws to 7 to 9 foot-pounds in a cross pattern.

Big-Twin

The Big-Twin primary chaincase holds approximately 26 ounces of Harley-Davidson Primary Chaincase Lubricant, part number 99887-84. Add fluid with the bike held upright and level until the fluid reaches the bottom edge of the diaphragm spring. Do not overfill. Install the inspection cover and torque the screws to 84 to 108 inch-pounds in the following clock-position pattern: 12, 7, 2,10 and 5 o'clock.

The Pains Of New Dentures

The pains of new dentures start the very moment they are put in your mouth. You have just had all your teeth extracted, a foreign object is now in your mouth, and it hurts. You need to learn to talk and eat with the new dentures, which can take a while. The adhesive you need to keep the plate in place can aggravate the open wounds from your extractions. The dentures might even test your gag reflex for the first week or two.

The First Hours

Swollen and bleeding gums can be particularly painful the first day after you've had all your teeth extracted to make way for this new dental plate. The dentures, or at least a temporary set, are worn home. They are snug and pinch, making an uncomfortable situation even more so. The gums throb as the novocaine wears off, adding to this pain.

Gag Reflex

The gag reflex is probably not something you took into consideration before getting this dental procedure done. A constant feeling that you may gag is one of the pains of new dentures. You may even dry-heave frequently until getting used to having this foreign object in your mouth. If the denture plate goes back too far on the roof of your mouth, the gag reflex may stay with you for a very long time.

Speech

New dentures can be very uncomfortable to talk with in the first week or so. Thus you may be very worried about going out in public. Dentures may slip often, causing a stabbing pain made apparent by your reaction. You may lisp and even accidentally spit while you are talking, as you try to keep this new dental equipment from slipping.

Pain of Adhesive

Another pain of new dentures comes from the adhesive, which hits the open and sore area of extracted teeth. It is a very delicate area where it is hard to clean off the adhesive, which acts like putty on contact. The added pressure can hurt.

Painful to Eat

When eating, you need to take the pain involved with your new dentures into consideration. With the dentures in, biting down on something hard puts pressure on the wounds and swollen gums, and the pain can be excruciating. If you eat without the dentures in, you are in pain as soon as the food hits the open and sore area where your teeth once were. You need to stick with liquids for at least a few days or longer.

Biting Your Tongue

The pains of new dentures will be very apparent when you bite your tongue for the first time. You are not used to the chunkiness of the denture plate, so it is inevitable that this will happen at least once. You tend to become very aware of this possibility after the first few times doing this.

.

Other Areas Involved

You'll feel the pain of your new dentures on your jaw, as it aches from the pressure your dentist needed to apply to extract your teeth. This jaw pain may even go into your ear, but it will subside within a day or two.

From having all these extractions, you can develop pressure headaches. The headaches are much like sinus headaches and usually subside after the first day. Taking a pain-relief product can eliminate this much more quickly.

New Construction Cleaning Tips

New construction sites can be extremely dangerous. This is true even after the construction is completely finished. There are always left-over materials that pose threats to people as well as animals. This trash needs to be removed as safely and quickly possible. There are several tips that can make cleaning a new construction site safer and faster.

Safety Equipment

Make sure you have the proper safety equipment when cleaning a new construction site. Wear long pants and long-sleeved shirts. Hard-soled, steel-toed boots and gloves also should be worn, and safety glasses should be worn at all times. Depending on the type of debris being removed, you also may need a dust mask (much like a surgical mask). If construction is still going on, it may be necessary to wear ear plugs.

Trash Containers

Make sure you have adequate trash containers. Check with your local authorities regarding recycling regulations. There also may be restrictions as to where and dispose of potentially dangerous materials such as nails, screws, insulation and other debris found at a new construction site.

Lifting Techniques

Be kind to your body and use proper lifting techniques. Always lift with your legs and not your back. Carry several small loads instead of one large load. Have others help you if a particular piece is too heavy or bulky for you to carry by yourself.

Eye for Detail

Keep an eye out for small pieces of trash and debris. Look carefully for small nails, screws and other sharp objects. Use a metal detector to help you find any such items, especially in grassy areas.

Get Help

Enlist the help of others. Make sure they understand the dangers of cleaning a new construction site. Provide them with all the safety equipment needed to clean the site safely. Show them the proper lifting techniques, and make sure they always use them.

Treat Turf Toe

Turf toe can be painful, but treatment options are available.

Turf toe is a term used to describe a sprain of the first metatarsophalangeal (MTP) joint, which is a joint in the big toe. The most common cause of the spraining, or jamming, of this joint is impact from a contact injury in sports. The injury gets its name from the unforgiving synthetic grass used on sports fields where this type of injury originated. Treatment methods for turf toe range from home remedies to surgery.

Instructions

1. Try RICE, which stands for rest, ice, compression and elevation. These steps are standard for many sports-related sprains and strains. Take a rest from physical activity for at least 24 to 48 hours after the injury, especially ones that may aggravate your turf toe. Ice the toe on and off, 20 minutes at a time every three or four hours. Wrap your toe in a bandage to limit range of motion in the achy joint, but keep the bandage loose enough so you do not cut off blood circulation. If your toe becomes numb, the wrap is too tight. Finally, elevate your toe by lying down and propping your foot on a couple of pillows. Keep the level of your toe above your heart to help reduce swelling.

2. Use orthotics to help relieve toe joint pain. Orthotics include a wide range of inserts and wraps that help to limit range of motion and provide support to sprained toes. Dancer's pads are felt pads that fit right under the forefoot and help redistribute pressure away from your big toe as you step. A turf toe strap wraps around the toe and has a tail that runs along the bottom of the foot. Turf toe straps help limit the range of movement of the toe, which helps the toe rest and heal. Simple arch supports can also help by allowing you shift more weight to your heel as you walk because of the extra heel support these orthotics provide.

3. If your turf toe pain and swelling does not subside after RICE treatment and orthotics, consult a physician because you may need surgery. Surgeons can implant new tissue into your foot or even fuse your toe joints together if your turf toe injury is severe. Most surgical procedures for turf toe allow patients to bear at least partial weight on the foot with the damaged toe on the first day after surgery. However, do not expect to return to athletic activity until several weeks after surgery.

Repair The Sprayer Hose In A Kitchen Sink

A kitchen sink equipped with sprayer hose makes cleaning dishes more convenient.

Kitchen sink sprayer hoses provide convenience for cleaning pots and pans, as well as washing debris from the sink. Sink sprayers consist of a sprayer head, activator lever, aerator and hose. Occasionally, the sprayer hose may malfunction because of to residue buildup or worn or damaged parts. You can repair the sprayer hose with basic tools and a few replacement parts, if necessary.

Instructions

1. Inspect the sprayer hose to check for mineral deposits clogging the aerator. Remove the aerator by hand-twisting the sprayer head counter-clockwise. Clean with a one-part vinegar, one-part water solution and apply with a scrub brush. Soak the aerator in a container of vinegar for 15 minutes to remove heavy buildup, and then scrub with a brush.

2. Replace the sprayer head on the hose if cleaning it did not fix the problem.

3. Unscrew the sprayer head by hand-twisting it in a counter-clockwise direction. Pull off the coupling and plastic gasket with your fingers. Use needle-nose pliers to grab the plastic ring underneath and pull it off. Pull off the bottom plastic fixture. Snap the new plastic fixture into place, and then the plastic ring. Replace the plastic gasket and coupling. Screw the new sprayer head into place by twisting clockwise. Test the sprayer.

4. Look at the hose and see if it shows sign of wear, such as leaks or splitting. If the sprayer head has visible damage, it is a good idea to replace it. Purchase a replacement hose with a sprayer head, since they are usually attached. Shut off the water supply to the sink. Turn the hot and cold water supply valves, usually located under the sink, to the right. With adjustable pliers, loosen the nut connecting the hose to the sink plumbing. Remove the old hose by pulling it out through the sleeve it is running through. Feed the new hose through the sleeve and up through the opening in the sink. Re-attach to the sink plumbing by tightening the nut with adjustable pliers. Turn on the water supply. Test the sprayer and hose to make sure they both operate correctly.

5. Replace the sprayer head by using the previous steps if the activator lever is not working. Since these two pieces are connected, you will need to replace the entire sprayer head.

Tips Warnings

Avoid using sharp or metal objects to unclog the sprayer heads, since these could damage the unit.

In some cases, you may need to remove the sprayer head from the hose to attach it.

Program Transponder Keys For Toyotas

Ignition keys are programmed directly to the engine starter.

Toyota vehicles around the world are equipped with a number of technologies that are offered for safety and convenience. One of these technologies, the ability to add transponder ignition keys, can be added by the dealership before purchase. Once included on your car, only a programmed ignition key, also known as a chip key, will be able to start your car. Programming of these keys can be done in just minutes from your car's driver's seat.

Instructions

1. Close all of the doors and the windows on your car.

2. Lock and unlock the driver's door with your key and enter the car and close the door behind you.

3. Insert your key into the ignition and do not turn it.

4. Wait for the security light to turn on and leave your key in the ignition for 15 seconds.

5. Remove the key, wait for the light to turn off and wait 30 seconds to open the door to end the programming sequence.

Maintain A Grohe Kitchen Faucet

Grohe makes high-end kitchen and bathroom faucets for commercial and residential use. Grohe tubs and faucets are always made of stainless materials that are simple to clean. Their faucets use a cartridge-based system that controls the water pressure and flow of the hot and cold water. These cartridges are intended to be replaced every three to five years under normal usage conditions. Clogged cartridges can lead to reduced water pressure as well as sediment in your water supply.

Instructions

1. Turn the main water knob to the off position. This knob is typically under the sink and attached to your pipes with a flexible metal tube. It should take half a turn to lock the water off.

2. Turn the hex key counterclockwise several times in the star-shaped aperture located beneath the faucet handle. This will loosen the faucet assembly, allowing you to remove the handle and the spigot.

3. Remove the handle and spigot by pulling them straight up and out of the assembly.

4. Attach your pliers to the cartridge, turning it 1/4 of a turn counterclockwise and then pulling it straight out.

5. Wipe down the inside of your faucet where the cartridge was seated. Drying the cartridge area will allow the new cartridge to seal better.

6. Insert the new cartridge, using the pliers to turn it 1/4 turn clockwise, locking it into place. You will hear a clicking sound when the cartridge is fully seated.

7. Replace the handle and spigot, using the hex key to tighten them into place (this will take several clockwise turns).

Tips Warnings

Grohe cartridges are replaceable, but if cleaned properly can last upwards of twenty years. Soak your cartridge for at least an hour in a vinegar and water mixture (10% vinegar, 90% water). Then scrub the cartridge with a soft toothbrush or scouring brush before returning it to the faucet.

Whenever you attempt maintenance on any of your plumbing, it is critically important that you shut the water main off first. Faucets and pipes are under heavy pressure with water that can be in excess of 100 degrees Fahrenheit. Failing to turn the water main off before performing maintenance can result in complications that can lead to serious burns and scalding.

Fix A Loose Kitchen Faucet

A kitchen sink gets a lot of use.

A kitchen faucet receives a lot of wear and tear from everyday use, which can cause the faucet to become loose. The faucet is held in place onto the sink top with nuts that screw on the faucet stems underneath the sink. If these nuts work their way loose and are not re-tightened it could cause more serious problems to the faucet.

Instructions

1. Position the faucet so it is square on the sink top. If the faucet is very loose it may have moved out of place and needs to be repositioned.

2. Locate the faucet stems under the kitchen sink. The stems should protrude through the sink top and have nuts at the top that hold the faucet in place. Water supply hoses also attach to the ends of the faucet stems.

3. Tighten the nuts at the top of the faucet stems directly under the sink top. Use a basin wrench to tighten the nuts. Make sure not to over tighten the nuts or the faucet body could crack. The nuts should be just snug enough to firmly hold the faucet onto the sink top.

4. Tighten the water supply hoses at the ends of the faucet stems with an adjustable wrench. If the faucet was loose it is very likely that the water supply lines could have become loose as well.

Choose A Dvd Recorder

Know what to look for in a DVD recorder.

DVD recorders are now affordable and far more practical than the 30-year-old technology of the bulky VCR. DVD recorders are available in three basic models. The basic DVD recorder enables copying DVDs and television signals. A high-definition DVD recorder is needed to capture the newer hi-def television signals or material recorded on Blu-Ray discs. Another style of DVD recorder comes with a hard drive similar to what is found in a personal computer. The hard drive allows you to store television programs for later viewing, when you can decide whether to record them with the DVD recorder. A third style of DVD recorder comes with a built-in VCR. This is a good choice for individuals who have a lot of home movies on videotape that they wish to transfer to the more convenient storage medium of the DVD.

Instructions

1. Choose a brand. Popular and well-rated brands include Onkyo, Phillips, Sony, Samsung and Sanyo.

2. Choose the DVD recorder that's right for you by deciding which of the three types will best serve your needs.

To make copies of DVDs or record television programs as they are being broadcast, a basic model will probably be sufficient.

To record live television and burn programs to a disc, choose a DVD recorder with a built-in hard drive. Several models offer a pause feature, which will allow you to skip commercials and create chapter breaks around them on the recorded DVD. The hard drive can also save money on blank DVDs because you can watch the program and decide if you want to keep it before burning the material to a recordable DVD.

Choose a DVD Recorder/VCR combo to quickly copy your old movie collection on VHS onto the longer-lasting DVD medium. Unlike DVDs, VHS cassettes have moving parts that can wear out.

3. Select special features to get maximum benefit from your DVD recorder. Look for compatibility with other formats. A DVD recorder that supports CDs, Photo-File discs, MP3 recordings and other audio/video files can reduce the number of components needed for a home theater system. You can watch movies, listen to music and view digital slideshows all on one piece of equipment. All but the most basic DVD recorders feature progressive scan. Upconverter DVD recorders are more expensive, but reproduce true high-definition image quality available in digital television signals and Blu-Ray discs.

4. Consider buying a dual-layer DVD recorder. These cost more, but the burner enables you to store longer movies or more photos on one disc by using the two recordable surfaces embedded on the DVD. Picture and sound quality of longer programs will also be superior on a dual-layer disc.

5. Choose between progressive scan and upconversion. Standard DVDs are recorded in the 480i format, which is less than half the resolution of high-definition television or Blu-Ray discs that produce a 1080i image. A DVD recorder with progressive scan or an upconversion feature can boost image quality into the high-definition range.

6. Consider your future needs. If you don't have a high-definition TV yet, a DVD recorder provides future benefits. All DVD recorders sold in the United States are required to come with a digital tuner. You can use a DVD recorder to receive the high-definition TV signal. This could represent a savings of $50 or more by not having to purchase a separate digital tuner.

7. Look for sales. Prices for electronic equipment are all over the map. Chances are, the model you want is on sale somewhere. Large electronics retailers like Best Buy post sale ads every Sunday on their websites. Auction sites like eBay are another good place to shop for bargains.

Tips Warnings

Note that standard DVD recorders cannot burn high-definition television programs, only replay existing programs.

Be aware that high-definition DVD recorders are on the market, but the components are still quite expensive and may be prone to bugs that are typically ironed out with second- and third-generation equipment.

Adjust The Shift Cable On A Grand Am

Adjust the Grand Am shifter cable

The Pontiac Grand Am is available in manual and automatic transaxle configurations. The shifter cable is part of the automatic transaxle and is one of the few repairs feasible on an automatic by a 'Do It Yourself' mechanic. Like any steel cable, shift cables are subject to wear and will eventually stretch or even break. The cable runs from inside the shift console, through the firewall, and connects to the manual lever on the transaxle.

Instructions

Adjust the Shift Cable

1. Loosen and remove the negative battery cable with a socket or box wrench.

2. Locate the shift cable attachment at the manual lever on the transaxle. Pry the cable off of the manual lever using a small screwdriver.

3. Rotate the manual lever clockwise from the Park position until it is in the Neutral position.

4. Put the shift lever inside the cab into the Neutral position.

5. Pull up on the cable adjuster tab with a pair of pliers and connect the cable to the manual lever. The adjuster will automatically put the right amount of tension in the cable.

6. Connect the negative battery cable to the battery and tighten with a box or socket wrench.

7. Apply the parking brake and attempt to start the engine in each transmission shifter position. The engine must only start in Park and Neutral. Go back and adjust the cable tension again if necessary.

Tips Warnings

If the engine starts in positions other than Park and Neutral and the cable appears to be adjusted properly you may need to test and replace the Neutral Safety Switch.

Education Requirements To Become A Geologist

Geologists study natural structures such as rock formations.

Geologists are scientists who study rock formations and plant and animal fossils to learn about the history of the Earth. They spend much of their time at remote locations, gathering specimens to carry out their research. The majority of geologists work in architectural or engineering firms, while others find employment in state or federal agencies, according to the Bureau of Labor Statistics.

Educational Requirements for Geologists

While a handful of entry-level positions can be obtained with a bachelor's degree, a master's degree is the minimum educational requirement for most geologist jobs. Positions as college professors and high-level researchers require a Ph.D. Prospective geologists should seek out programs in geoscience that cover topics including paleontology and structural geography. Completing an internship as part of a degree program is also recommended because fieldwork is an integral part of a geologist's career.

Curriculum for Geologists

Master's degrees in geology, such as the one offered by the University of Wisconsin-Madison, can be completed in two years. A candidate for a master's degree in geology will select a faculty advisor who will help to shape the student's degree program. Master's degree candidates will submit a thesis during the final semester of study. At the Ph.D. level, students must meet additional requirements, such as taking comprehensive examinations en route to defending a dissertation. Topics studied by geology students at the graduate level include seismology, the origin of sedimentary rocks and volcanology.

Other Qualifications for Geologists

In addition to completing a rigorous academic course of study, prospective geologists need solid computer skills, notes the BLS. Knowledge of Global Positioning Systems, or GPS, and Global Information Systems, or GIS, gives geologists a competitive advantage when entering the job market. Interpersonal skills are important because geologists often work in teams with other scientists. The BLS states that the ability to think logically and infer conclusions from limited data is a must for geologists.

Job Outlook for Geologists

Through the year 2018, employment for geologists is expected to grow by about 18 percent. This is faster than average growth than other occupations, according to the BLS. This growth is spurred by an increased need for environmental protection and energy. Anticipated upgrades to existing infrastructure, such as highways, call for qualified geologists with experience in engineering. While competition will be keen for jobs that require Ph.D.s, geologists with master's degrees can expect excellent job prospects, notes the BLS. As of May 2008, the average median wage for geoscientists, including geologists, was $79,160.