Wiring Intermatic Timer

I am installing a new Intermatic Timer -model T-1975 to replace an existing timer that no longer works. The wiring instructions state- This time switch can be wired to control two circuits as Single Pole Double Throw, or to control one circuit as Single Pole Single Throw. Either Normally Open (NO) or Normally Closed (NC). To wire Time Switch as desired, see wiring diagram above. I'm no good at wiring diagrams. The timer has 4 terminals, instead of the 3 on my previous unit, so I can't just copy the wiring. The timer is used only for a single yard light. The 4 terminals are labelled NO,NC,Common, and Clock. It looks like I run the supply line to the Common and Clock terminals. Then do I run one wire from the light to the clock, and the other to NO OR the NC terminal? Is this a normally open circuit? Power in black shoud go to your clock neutral in should go to your common. switch leg out to light black should go to NO and the white neutral again should go the the common. Hope this helps Wg When I wired the unit as per your instructions, and turned power back on- nothing happens? Previous unit ticked like a clock. This unit doesn't tick and when I trip the manual override, the light doesn't come on. Do I assume the unit is defective or ?? Supply (hot, maybe black) goes to CLOCK and supply neutral (maybe white) goes to COM. The light should connect between clock and N.O. Assuming this is the wiring diagram: http://www.intermatic.com/techsup/t1975.pdf I vote for neither of the above two answers. The diagram shows that the COM is the connection that is switched. So it seems you should attach the supply line hot wire to the COM, and the supply line neutral wire (i.e., grounded wire) to the CLOCK. Then the load hot connects to NO or NC, and the load neutral connects to the CLOCK. Otherwise, you're going to switch the neutral. It sure would have been nice if they would have labeled those two supply wires. It doesn't seem very intuitive to attach the hot wire to the COM terminal. I'm OK with the supply lines- black to clock and white to COM. And that is the identical wiring diagram on my unit- thanks. But when you say the light should connect between the clock and NO, I'm lost. Neutral (white) from light goes to COM and black goes?? Appreciate your help. Tom Now I'm getting worried. If I try any of the options suggested and the suggestions are wrong- is there a chance I'll fry my new unit, or worse? Is the worse that can happen is I'll trip the breaker? Thanks Tom Wait to see if somebody concurs with my opinion. The thing that is throwing everyone it the fact that the word common is most often associated with neutral or ground. When I posted my reply I was going by memory. After looking at the wiring diagram that HandyRon provided for us, the following wiring is correct. The black of power connects to the common. The white of power connects to the clock. The white of the light connects to the clock. The black of the light connects to the NO. Sorry, my memory didn't serve me well in my first post. John is right that you can not install a switch on a grounded or neutral wire. My opologies Wg Looking again, I'll agree with John and WG, that the hot (maybe black) should go to COM and both Neutrals (maybe white) to CLOCK and the remaining wire to the light goes to ......... N.O. If there is a severe mix up, the circuit breaker should trip due to a short. John's point is that we shouldn't open and close (switch) the neutral conductor, the hot is what should be switched. Although they both will functionally work, switching the hot is the correct way. The unit is functioning properly now. It's amazing how what sometimes seems to be a 10 minute job can develop into a real head-scratcher. Thanks for the advice- couldn't have done it without you. Tom

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Where to buy ready made fascia boards?

I am located in Northern California east bay area. Can any one tell me where I can buy those ready made, weather proofing, termit resistant fascia boards (1x6?)? I couldn't find anything like that in local stores such as Home Depot. Does any one use those Trex boards or Vinyl boards as fascia boards? Thanks. SoarOnWings Not sure why you couldn't find these at your HD. Mine has a whole display. Go to the Pro Desk and ask them order what you want. Ditto...... I just bought some at my local store !!! The HD people in the lumber department of the two local HD stores I visited either didn't find them or showed me those untreated DF #2 1x6 boards which are obviously not weather proofing nor termite resisting. I didn't mean to use those vinyl or trex boards if they are not the common materials used for fascia because they are expensive and may not be easily painted to the color I want later, even they are avialable in our local HD. I don't know what fascia boards you just bought. Do they have the corner for supporting/hooking up the sofits? Are they treated/painted/redwood boards? Do you have HD's sku # (I guess they are the same in any HD store no matter which state you are in)? Thanks. SoarOnWings Here on the right coast, we use Miratex. 25 year warranty, and comes primed. Not sure it is available at HD, but local lumber yards carry it. Stop dealing with the knucklheads in the lumber section at HD. Most of these guys are glorified stockboys and from what you are saying that they show you DF boards instead of rot/termite resistant man made material just shows you that they don't know what they are doing. Check out www.azek.com to see if this is what you want, then if it is, go to the Pro Desk and place your order. The brand should be TrimPlank. It's a composite board. They usually have it beside the primed 1 by material. Are these Trimplanks finished white PVC boards? I probably will go with them if I later decide to use white color to replace all my gutters and trims then. I called a lumber yard and they have treated primed radiata pine facia boards seems a fit. Have to see if I can take a look at them in one of the Saturday mornings. All those Pro Desk or lumber yards seem have business hours for pros, not for DYIers who can't go there during weekday hours. Thanks for your postings. The white PVC boards are under the brand name Never Rot. It's usually located in the trim aisle in the doors and windows section As sgtgerryf replied, i always use azek boards (azek.com). They can be milled, cut, sanded, or anything that you can do to wood. It comes in many sizes and is white. It is easily painted if you desire. The company also makes a corner piece....good luck! I am new to this forum and was looking for some new material to use for replacement fascia. I built my house 11 years ago and wanted to use redwood on the fascia, but it was too expensive so I used Georgia-Pacific siding and ripped it to fit with the expectation that it would last 10 years, which it did. I don't know about pre-made or ready made since most fascia must be cut to fit. You will need stock wide enough to cover the fascia after you have cut the appropriate angle to fit against your roof. You can use any material, but different material will last different lengths of time depending on your weather. Here in Oklahoma, nothing last forever. Even a good material will only last as long as the end of the roofing member behind it or the next tornado gets to close. Depending on your region you may also have to replace a shingle molding and/or a drip molding, which is usually metal. All of these pieces are of different widths and cut at the same angle as the roof. If you use wood or a composite I highly recommend that you prime and paint it before you install it. Any body ever use a cement board for this purpose? If you have, what kind of life did you get out of it? meratic is ok , but you can get this stuff called smart trim. its an osb product, sealed and primed, comes in 2 inchto 12 inch, 16 ft. boards. not treated though(treated only refers to bugs not weater). meratic is ok , but you can get this stuff called smart trim. its an osb product, sealed and primed, comes in 2 inchto 12 inch, 16 ft. boards. not treated though(treated only refers to bugs not weather).has the same surface texture as meratic.

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Wayne Dalton Torquemaster help

The winding end on my Torquemaster (original design) just let go....releasing all tension of the spring while the door was going up. Also destroyed the plate on the door that connects to the door opener trolley. I took the Torquemaster apart and realized the spring is still intact, just the splines on the winding end stripped off. Unfortunately I cant quickly get a winding end and the wife doesnt like parking outside I was wondering what I would need to do (parts wise.......pretty sure I can handle the install) to convert from the torquemaster back to extension springs, as that seems to be a more future proof fix (no one around here can get torquemaster parts anymore) Thanks in advance. -Chris parts available at progaragedoor.com. Do a search for Wayne-Dalton parts. I just got springs and gears for a 16' door. I did see the part there, yes. But, I just finished converting it to extension springs. Why? A) the design of the original Torquemaster is bad. Plastic (bad) splines that are 17mm long and 2mm thick (bad) and the drive gear only engages 7mm of the spline (BAD BAD). I can upgrade to the new version which seems much better, but I basically need all new hardware and a couple hours of work. B) Wayne Dalton Corporate says the old version parts are no longer being produced. So, will the current parts stock eventually run out? C) I bought everything to convert off the shelf at Lowes. Im sure I paid more because I bought there, but the point is that I can now fix anything on the garage door with a trip to a local store. No waiting for parts, no guessing at which part I need, etc. I called the local garage door companies and they were going to do the exact same thing.....convert it to something they could service. If the design wasnt so bad I would gladly wait for parts. But I just cant see waiting longer to replace parts on something that will most likely break again (and from what Ive heard/read its amazing mine lasted this long). I did save the parts though, and I have a call in with Wayne Dalton. If they somehow decide to give me the parts to change to the new version, I will gladly change back to the torque tube. All the above is correct. I would not recommend extension springs, which you already did, but replace the torquemaster with standard torsion springs. They are less likely to give problems over time, and if they break, nothing gets damaged. Safety cables notwithstanding, they can break or come loose when needed. I have a 2nd door with the Torquemaster setup. If it goes (and since its my garage bay so I dont care about being outside for a while), I will look into getting it converted to torsion instead of extension. Is the Torquemaster Plus any better? Judging from the parts differences it *should* be better, but is it? As JB said..I'd convert to straight torsion if required. The WD stuff is good for a DIY install, but if you can be safe and use tools, a plain torsion is much simpler and cheaper.

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VCT over VCT?

I have a small bathroom closet that has VCT, it's on pretty good, I took a chissle and it will chip off but it's on that well, it looks like it will take alot to remove dow to the conc., can I glue the new tile over the old? what glue would you use? Thanks I know it can be done, we did it in the Navy all the time. 2 layers was the max, then it was time for the pneumatic chipping hammer. Couldn't tell you what glue, just that back then, you almost had to wear a respirator from the fumes. You need to strip any wax off the existing...and it seems like we used an abrasive pad on a buffer to take any sheen off the old tile. The Pro's will be around. Yes, you can install VC tile over VC tile. You need to strip the finish off the existing tiles, and that's typically done with a chemical stripper. Phone around to the janitorial supply stores in your area as some of them will also provide janitorial services as well. Those places will sell you a small amount of wax stripper from an open jug (or even give you some if you bring a bottle for them to fill). They use wax stripper to clean residual wax out of their stripping pads. You can also buy it for $25 to $30 per gallon at any janitorial supply store, but if this closet is only 4 feet by 4 feet, you're not going to need more than a pint of stripper. People tell me that the stripper needs to be diluted with water to work properly, but I've always found that it actually works better if you use it straight (if you use the method described in the following paragraph). A fast easy way to remove the floor finish from small areas is to grip a single edge razor blade with a pair of needle nose style locking pliers. Spread the stripper over part of the floor area and allow time (10 to 20 minutes or so) for the stripper to soften the finish. When the finish is soft you should be able to scratch the floor with your fingernail and have soft finish accumulate under your fingernail. Then just shave the softened finish off the floor with the razor. Once you've done the whole floor this way, then just use a green Scotchbrite pad to scrub the floor with wax stripper to remove any residual finish, and clean the stripper off the floor with water. Some strippers are harsher on the skin than others, so have some rubber gloves handy. If you never put acrylic finish down on those tiles, they might not even have any finish on them to remove. I would just Roberts 2057 VCT tile adhesive to glue down the new tiles. I think Home Depot sells the Roberts line of flooring adhesives. This is an adhesive that's light beige and opaque in the tub but dries to a transluscent goldish colour. People often refer to it as Clear adhesive because of the way it dries. Once the adhesive has dried sufficiently so that it's all that transluscent gold colour, you can start laying tiles in it. Using a hair dryer would accelerate the drying time. I'm sure this has already been completed since it's 4 months old, but Nestor gave you great advice. The only thing I would add is to make sure there aren't any spots in the old tile that are beginning to come up and do not follow the existing tile lines. If, after time, the first layer begins coming up, the new layer will immediately begin coming up as well if it's right on the old tile lines.

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Translation, hot tub covers - what's the best?

My ongoing saga of my hot tub that is too far away from our house is never ending. I have noticed at least, every other week it loses two to three inches of water. Well today my long hose is frozen and I can not get water too it. Since we just purchased this house in the fall, we became owners of this could be nice spa. I have also noticed that the old owners bought a too small cover which has become very heavy from water. I am very confused about the specifications for covers. Other than cost differences how does the 1 vs 1 1/2 inch foam... etc. really make a difference for someone in my situation? I think if I get a better cover the spa might not be such high maintance. Any wisdom and/or what has worked for you, information would be much appreciated. Note, we do not have to worry about little kids, we live in SW Ohio. Thanks! ewschott said Note, we do not have to worry about little kids, we live in SW Ohio. Are little kids all eaten in SW Ohio ?? Or maybe banned by the Government?? Sorry could not resist JBB No we just eat them... I said that because I know there is one made so people can walk on it, thus protecting children as a safety cover. I can't believe there is no one to help me with this! Thickness and foam density are directly related to thermal efficency. Tops of the same thickness can either be made to walk on or not. For maximum safety get a top that you can walk on and is lockable. You know what they say.... you get what you pay for....most of the time Hi Ewschott , the thicker covers do a better job of holding the heat in, if you don't need a safety cover, by all means don't buy one as they are quite a bit more $ steve JBB I did enjoy your humor don't have one of these but heard they are great http://www.rhtubs.com/store/insulate.htm but if you read thru the message board http://www.rhtubs.com/cgi-bin/bbs/config.pl you can see some testamonials. when my cover wears out i'm considering getting one of them JBB I just re-read what I wrote and it did sound a bit off! I did get your humor too, I hope you got mine! Luckydriver thanks for the link. I visited the site and really can't make out the cover you like - it looks like it is almost concave? Here is what I ended up with : Hot Tub Works I have purchased chemicals from them and when they put up the free shipping on covers I grabbed one. I went ahead and ordered the 2 foam. Their customer service is awesome, a fella named Chris really went the extra mile to help me. (sorry Mr./Ms. Moderator if I am not allowed to say this, just remove if it's a problem.) I think the previous owner of our house just bought a square cover and that is why I am having so many evaporation problems. I didn't realize it was 2 longer one way, thus this cover really doesn't fit well. It is also water logged. Spending money on a spa cover was like putting on a new roof. You finally realize you have to have one but you hate spending the money. I hope this makes life easier. Thanks again! Well that link is right so here it is without the name embedded: http://www.hottubworks.com/cgi-bin/c...actionkey=CVR Hi, I just came across a cover at www.spacap.com. I just bought my hot tub and am going to tell my dealer that I don't want their cover or lift anymore knowing all the issues and problems with the foam covers. You have to check out this site. It is a very cool cover system!!!! Hope this helps. Mike I also just saw the spacap cover for the first time the other day. They do a very good job of marketing it. I did however start to wonder about their credibility when the showed the video of the two young men barely able to remove the old foam cover. I decided to get an unbiased opinion and just did a google search for spacap. The results from the search were very enlightening. I recommend that anyone considering this product research it beyond spacap's website. I recently just ordered a SpaCap. I can't tell you how I like it yet because I just received it the other day. My power pack went on my tub so I'm waiting for that to return, then I'll fill the tub and put the SpaCap on. So, I will report back as to how I like it. Why did I buy the spa cap. My original cover was a piece of crap. It kept getting water logged, like they all do, and the styrofoam cracked. Based on what I read about the spacap and how it worked, I decided to give it a try. Albeit an expensive try, I figured I didn't want to have to buy another foam cover in two-years anyway. The spacap has easy on/off capability which was important to me. The r-value is supposed to be better than the foam covers. We'll see about that. The quality of the cover seems pretty good. The underside is similar to that of a rubber raft, the heavy duty whitewater rafting type. The top side is like an umbrella and looks pretty good. As far as finding information other than what SpaCap provides, I couldn't find much. I'd be curious to know where such information/reviews exist. I found my information by doing a google seach spacap forum. I found discussions on www.poolsearch.org/forum and www.handymanwire.com/ubbthreads/showflat. Please keep me posted because I do need a new cover and would like to believe the spacap is everything it claims to be. hi i had to take the plunge and buy a new cover since the dog finished off the last one. i also ended at www.hottubworks.com . i was a little concerned ordering over the web but it worked out better than i could hoped for. love the new cover and the service was very good. they went the extra mile to make me feel comfortable. i thought about the inflatable type cover but with kids and a dog didnt seem like the safe choice. i could see my six year old trying to bounce on it. i also bought a lift for the cover which turned out to be the best deal ever. i can now use the spa without dragging the cover off. yeah. now i hope my dog does not eat this one. thanks for the advice it helped. jhopper Well sense we are off to bigger and better things this time of year... the swimming pool! I thought I would let you know the cover we did purchase is working great, plus I broke down a bought a cover valet, it makes such a difference in taking the cover off and then back on. Just be warned a degree from MIT can only be helpful to a limited tools woman kind of like DIYer....when you put it on the spa! Do your research BEFORE ordering a Hot tub Cover. I dealt with a place called The Cover Guy Supposidly these covers were made in Canada...NOT!! They are made in MExico. It took 27 phone calls to finally get my cover. Then I had to track it down myself, and pick it up from a wrong delivery address. Buy at your own risk! The owners do not return calls and they consistantly tell tales about the progress and shipment, where it is coming from, the status etc. etc. etc. . Email me for more info I will be glad to fill you in. I think they train their people with the appropriate lie of the hour. I will keep you informed if the owner makes good on his promise to compensate! Originally Posted by ewschott My ongoing saga of my hot tub that is too far away from our house is never ending. I have noticed at least, every other week it loses two to three inches of water. Well today my long hose is frozen and I can not get water too it. Since we just purchased this house in the fall, we became owners of this could be nice spa. I have also noticed that the old owners bought a too small cover which has become very heavy from water. I am very confused about the specifications for covers. Other than cost differences how does the 1 vs 1 1/2 inch foam... etc. really make a difference for someone in my situation? I think if I get a better cover the spa might not be such high maintance. Any wisdom and/or what has worked for you, information would be much appreciated. Note, we do not have to worry about little kids, we live in SW Ohio. Thanks! spa covers in general are a pain in the rump. In northern lattitudes you will want a cover that is at least 4 thick in the center tapered to 3 or so inches on the long ends. For strength you should have 2# foam inserts. One thing to keep in mind, is that once a cover starts to get heavy, it's r-value is going south in a hury. The cover is your primary insulator, so you will want to keep it in tip-top shape. Because of freight concerns I always recomend that covers be bought localy whenever possible. I purchased my spa cover from The Cover Guy in 09. The cover has been great since then, its still as light as the day it came. I purchased their 6-4 taper cover as it has an R value of 24 which is great for my climate. That is something we were told to look for is the insulation value. They also used a 1.5lb foam which is better than the standard 1lb foam everyone else seems to offer. They knew my model of spa and had helped me with the dimensions as well. I would definitely recommend The Cover Guy! They know what they are doing when it comes to their covers.

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The infamous Kenmore (Frigidaire) 417 and BBB (long, but need advise)

Hello, I am the 'proud' owner (my wife rather ) of the infamous Kenmore 417.XXXXXX Frigidaire-made washing machine. Lately the machine became extremely loud while spinning. I read hear as well as many other forums and learned that my rear bearing is on its way to yesterday's land. I did open the back cover, everything is amazingly clean, literally looks brand new (we got the machine on August 2003, so a hair short of 6 years), there are no leaks, no grease/oil stains, etc. Although somewhat a DIY'er I immediately waived off any remote chance of me tackling this myself. Just seems too complicated to me. My wife and I knew that we would probably have to look at a new machine. We called a local appliance repair technician just so that we won't regret it after the fact why didn't we at least listened what a technician had to say, and his $69.99 advise was go buy a new machine. Somewhere on the web I read that someone said file a complaint with BBB. So I said what the heck and I did, on a weekend couple of weeks ago, with no real expectations. Wouldn't you know it, the following Wednesday I get a call from a very nice lady at Sears HQ who wants to discuss. She wants to send a technician (free of charge) to evaluate. I told her no problem (after I expressed my disappointment and the fact that this is a well known issue and that Sears makes tons of money out of it). She also said we'll wait to see what our technician has to say and I am willing to work with you. To make a long story short - Sears tech. came last Saturday, everything was already ready for him on his laptop. Total cost to repair - $501. He said go buy a new machine... ...continue below (sorry about that, I thought the 2nd part was posted earlier.) Fast forward to today - the nice lady from Sears called back to follow up. Here is what she offers: Basket (although in like new shape, must be replaced) - under warranty. Other parts - $281; she'll give me credit (after I pay and repair) of $100 towards parts, so total parts for me - $181. Labor - free. So, it will cost me $181 to fix the damn thing. By all means this is an awesome deal. Sears is obviously troubled by the BBB complaint and will do whatever they can to make me happy. On the balance is a 4.0 cu ft. LG machine at Home Depot, original is $899, today's deal is $699 plus 10%, free delivery and removal of old machine. This LG is direct drive, larger machine, better warranty, and if I use my HD card I get to pay around $60 a month for the next year and I'm done. Now, here is my dilemma: $630 vs. $181, obviously $181 to repair this machine is a great deal. BUT - from what I understand this repair involves removing of the door seal. I get dizzy just thinking about the potential damage this kind of thing has in store (leaks, etc). So, does it really worth dealing with this machine and Sears in general? What do you think? Thanks If $181 would fix your Sears washer up enough to last another six years, I'd go for it. I'd definitely ask if there was any kind of warranty on the repair, just to allay your concerns about removing/replacing the door seal. I know major appliances aren't designed to last as long as they used to be, but to junk out a washer after six years seems rather wasteful. Another thing to check out about the LG appliances is how available is factory authorized service in your area? Originally Posted by Beachboy If $181 would fix your Sears washer up enough to last another six years, I'd go for it. I'd definitely ask if there was any kind of warranty on the repair, just to allay your concerns about removing/replacing the door seal. I know major appliances aren't designed to last as long as they used to be, but to junk out a washer after six years seems rather wasteful. Another thing to check out about the LG appliances is how available is factory authorized service in your area? They will provide 90 days warranty on the repair. I am kind of aware of my relationship with Mr. Murphy....my seal will brake down on the 91st day. BTW - we did buy a Kenmore dryer together with this washer and believe it or not it broke on the 364 day...I called Sears that night, they said you are out of warranty...I had to tell them to double check because we were under warranty until the next day. How do I check if there is authorized LG service in my area? I would assume there is...after all it's not a minor brand and they are around for some years now, isn't it? Edited: OK, did a search on LG site and that's what I am getting for my zip code: LG FACTORY SERVICE TECHNICIAN (FSC) Sears or AE usually take care of LG from HD, Lowes, HHgreg and others. Used to recommend LG until ran into parts problem. Had to take apart machine and get part # off old part before LG could send right part. This after calling LG direct to get part #. Only recommend Whrilpool built machines. I would take the offer Sears gave you. Reason basket needs to be replaced is we find bearing surface is bad or pulley is frozen on. after repair your machine should be good for many years. Other common problems with your machine is door lock and we used to have mootor control go bad but I have not replaced a motor control in a couple of years. Pay to have a new door boot installed when job is done if the old boot is glued to front of cabinet. Should not be any more labor as boot has to come off to do job. Originally Posted by pugsl Sears or AE usually take care of LG from HD, Lowes, HHgreg and others. Used to recommend LG until ran into parts problem. Had to take apart machine and get part # off old part before LG could send right part. This after calling LG direct to get part #. Only recommend Whrilpool built machines. I would take the offer Sears gave you. Reason basket needs to be replaced is we find bearing surface is bad or pulley is frozen on. after repair your machine should be good for many years. Other common problems with your machine is door lock and we used to have mootor control go bad but I have not replaced a motor control in a couple of years. Pay to have a new door boot installed when job is done if the old boot is glued to front of cabinet. Should not be any more labor as boot has to come off to do job. The door boot is included in the parts she qouted, but the part is not the issue, my problem is with the fact that you need to remove it and put it back on, especially if glue is involved. I fear that this stuff is prone to problems. New boot does not glue on. Boot should not be a problem. Have changed many. Originally Posted by pugsl New boot does not glue on. Boot should not be a problem. Have changed many. But it is glued now, so how does it go on in a replacement?! the new boot has been redesigned and now has a retainer spring. the boot will not be a problem. if it works for 90 days it could work for another 5 years Originally Posted by David_Thompson the new boot has been redesigned and now has a retainer spring. the boot will not be a problem. if it works for 90 days it could work for another 5 years Shouldn't the machine frame itself allow for this spring? I don't see how the boot itself can be redesigned to accept the a retainer spring without the frame holding it. Also, I just looked at searspartsdirect.com and surprisingly the same parts that she quoted for me cost less than the quote Sears gave me. This is ridiculous...she said labor will be free so how come a shell/bearing cost at Sears $169.99 and she quoted $229.48? Same with the kit (door boot) - it is $38.49 in Searspartsdirect, she gave me quote of $51.96. She is giving me a credit of $100 after the repair anyway and trying to make me happy so that I close my complaint with BBB...I just don't get it. Maybe tgis will help. Sears is a big company in business to make a profit. They are not stupid. The prices you see at SPD are retail. Want to get your eyes opened? Take the part numbers from SPD and look them up on ebay. You'll get an idea of how they can give you the labor for free [hint- it's buried in the parts markup]. Sears does hundreds of thousands of service calls annually. They have the numbers well crunched. Another gimmick Sears has is this- you call for service, they talk you into a temporary contract for repairs that is like $215. Then they tell you that if the repair will exceed $500 they will give you a coupon for $500 off on a new appliance at Sears. The tech comes out, if a particular repair normally retails for say $159, you'll never know that you just overpaid for that repair. If the repair exceeds $500, the tech gives you the coupon. People think, wow, $500 off on a new appliance never stopping to realize that they paid $215 to get the coupon so the discount is $285 not $500. To answer the question about boot is under the glued part of boot there is a ridge that the new boot goes over and than spring clamp will hold it on. Have done many of them and that is not a problem. if you can get if fixed for $181 then do it. yes the parts cost more from sears home service than in a store or on the internet which is not surprising. it costs a crap load of money to have 12,000 vans driving around and to support them Originally Posted by David_Thompson if you can get if fixed for $181 then do it. yes the parts cost more from sears home service than in a store or on the internet which is not surprising. it costs a crap load of money to have 12,000 vans driving around and to support them Right, maybe if they didn't produce (or bought and redistributed such) crapy machines they didn't have to have 12,000 vans. The funny thing is their own technicians tell the customers to buy a new machine, as in my case. Suggesting a new machine is normal. Sears expects their techs to complete 85% of their calls. If a tech breezes into your home, sees an expensive repair, he/she will suggest a new machine. If the customer agrees, that goes into their log as a completed call for which they did a minimal amount of work. Then they rush off to the next call. I agree with the other guys, if they will fix it for $181, that might be your best route. Back in the 1960's front loading washers came into vogue. They disappeared from the marketplace because they broke down a lot and were expensive to repair. Since the re-emergence of front loaders one company had their model put them out of business. It's just difficult to make a front loader with the same reliability as a top loader but folks seem to like them. Right, maybe if they didn't produce (or bought and redistributed such) crapy machines they didn't have to have 12,000 vans. i believe that your main gripe should be with the company that designed and produced the machine(Frigidaire). funny how when someones transmission in their car goes out at 50k miles it is not the fault of the car dealership but the same logic doesnt apply to appliances for some reason unknown to me. Originally Posted by daddyjohn Suggesting a new machine is normal. Sears expects their techs to complete 85% of their calls. Back in the 1960's front loading washers came into vogue. They disappeared from the marketplace because they broke down a lot and were expensive to repair. Since the re-emergence of front loaders one company had their model put them out of business. It's just difficult to make a front loader with the same reliability as a top loader but folks seem to like them. Sorry, not sure I follow you. So you are suggesting that Sears (or any other company for that matter who uses the same practice) should not care less about their products and should tell their technicians to try and find a way to advise the (already unhappy) customer to buy a new machine? Please tell me you are not joking. If this is indeed Sears' policy then all I can say is that I wish they get out of business sooner rather than later. Company that sells a product should strive to sell a quality product, not something that will last 5-6 years hoping that the (fool) customer will say oh, OK...I'll just buy a new product from you that will brake down in no time. As for front loader - with all due respect, maybe it is an easy excuse by American manufacturers to blame front load in difficult to make them with the same reliability. No one in Europe use top loads, German machines are notorious for their reliability, even today...not 30 years ago. AEG machine lasts easily north of 20 years. This attitude is very similar to the American car manufacturers who insist of making stuff that was good 40-50 years ago, and then wonder why they can't sell anything. Not sure what's the big love in this country for top load, but they are so un-efficient, they don't clean as well as front load....nothing to compare to a front load. Sorry, but to 'blame' the complexity of a front load vs. top load for lack of reliability and bad service is just lame. Originally Posted by David_Thompson i believe that your main gripe should be with the company that designed and produced the machine(Frigidaire). funny how when someones transmission in their car goes out at 50k miles it is not the fault of the car dealership but the same logic doesnt apply to appliances for some reason unknown to me. Of course it is...exact same logic. Don't get me wrong - my issue is not with the technician. Obviously a technician says what he's told to say. My beef is with the company that buys bad products and pretend to deliver the best product/service in the world. I wonder, that in the future, as machines get more bells and whistles and become more expensive, in the same mannor cars have -that if it will become more worthwhile to get the machine fixed? (Dishwashers, front load washers, fridges, etc.) Or, if the repair bill will still represent a given high percentage of the cost of the appliance? My guess is the more expensive the machine becomes, that by and large, repairs will be advised more often. The appliances of the 80's and 90's cost too little to almost be worth repairing. And hence, with what appliance technicians are charging (maybe $70 to show up at the door and not do anything), it often is not worth sinking money into say $275-500 appliances. But on appliances now that are like $1200 -2000 for some of these fancy appliances, people may opt for the repairs.

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I have a 5000 watt Coleman generator from 1999 with a 10hp Tecumseh engine. It starts up easlily, but RPM and power surges at any load. My son has now added to the problem. He made changes to the governor spring position and its adjustment bolt. There are 6 notches where the spring can sit, and the bolt has been moved in and out. Anyone know what would cause the surging and what are the correct governor spring settings and make adjustments to the bolt? has the carb been removed? If so it may need a static governor adjustment A shop did work on the carb 2 years ago. It has sat ever since, without testing it. I went to use it for the first time since getting it from the shop and it started right up, but would constantly surge. I checked the filter, which was fine, and then went looking for the old manual. I never found it, and while I was looking for it is when the son decided to play with the governor spring. It still runs, but I can tell the speed is slower, and still surging. Static governor adjustment? How do I get info on doing this? Never mind, I looked it up. It also said likely cause is partly blocked carb. I will clean, then try Static governor adjustment, and then check for correct AC output. remember that when you get it running smooth you need to adjust the speed so it's putting out 60 cycles, normally that's printed somewhere as a certain rpm like 3600. I used a kill-o-watt meter to adjust mine as it gives the AC cycles output Yes, my RShack volt meter has cycles display. Thanks for your help 38racing. You giving the name to the adjustment needed was what I needed. I looked for hours without luck until you gave me what to look for. link below for anyone interested. Understanding and Adjusting your Governor on a small engine Originally Posted by bradwyle Yes, my RShack volt meter has cycles display. Thanks for your help 38racing. You giving the name to the adjustment needed was what I needed. I looked for hours without luck until you gave me what to look for. link below for anyone interested. Understanding and Adjusting your Governor on a small engine Most inexpensive volt meters won't give cycles.

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Spider Control

I have massive spiders all over my yard and around my house foundation. Most are harmless wolf spiders, and I know they are actually good to have. But the my wife and myself are both terrified of them and freak out when they get inside our home and in the garage. I want to exterminate everything living thing in my yard, I know it sounds crazy but I absolutely want all insects gone from my lawn. There are tons of spiders, flies, gnats, and things I have no idea what they are. I have heard the store bought treatments do not work well and are a waste of money, is there anything that is effective on spider control aswell as everything that crawls? Thanks I'm interested in spider control as well and what works best. People say wolf spiders are harmless, but the fact is they will still bite you. You won't necessarily die, but bottom line is they bite and will leave an irritated itchy welt. I know in general they are good for the eco-system and all that, but I have a ton of them. When I mow they are running in every direction! Some as large as the palm of my hand! It freaks me out and with the 4th of july coming up I dont want them crawling all over everything at my party! Only thing I could find online was some stuff called Demon WP or something. Hopefully someone around here knows a thing or two about whiping out all living life in your yard. =) Spiders are carnivores and feed on other insects. A monthly perimeter treatment of the foundation and the surrounding area with residual insecticide tends to keep insects and spiders at bay. There are insecticide treatments for lawns, sprays, wettable powders, and granular. These are available for both under ground and above ground pests. Check at your local garden center. Read and follow label directions. Do not apply insecticide while people or pets are on the lawn. If using granular, water in. If using sprays, lawn in safe for traffic when it is dry. Every single product Home Depot and Lowes carries does not control spiders. Some direct contact type sprays will kill them if you hit them with it, but nothing put into the yard at those places even lists spiders as one of the things controlled. I searched for a half an hour a few nights ago and then asked a sales person. Thats why I am asking if anyone knows something else that you have to order offline. DEMON WP is the only thing I have found so far, has anyone tried it? You can kill existing spiders in lawn, but they will continue to be a problem. Insecticides will kill spiders that come in contact with the insecticide, but those insect protective egg sacs will not. Spiders will continue to invade the property from adjoining properties. Spider control will have to be ongoing and will require patience and persistence. The good thing about Demon WP is that it is a residual, which accounts for its effectiveness. Reapplications are necessary as rain and heavy dew take their toll on its presence in the lawn. If you are having a lawn party, treat the lawn prior to the party. Spiders in the lawn at the time of the application should bite the dust and those that would dare enter during the party would make contact and hopefully die soon thereafter. If spiders are a problem inside the home. Seal all gaps and entries to prevent them from coming in. This includes where pipes and wires enter the home and around pipes under sinks. Make sure all doors and windows seal tightly. Apply residual insecticide on door thresholds and in window sills. Vacuum and clean behind furniture frequently. Avoid clutter and places where spiders could hide. Spray baseboards with residual insecticide each month. Professional exterminators are available to provide insecticide control for both interior and exterior of homes. The pros have access to chemicals that homeowners do not. As a note, where I work I have to manage a contract for pest control. One of the main points a technician will tell you is there is no bait or spray that works perfectly for spiders. The residual is your best bet on the lawns. They also have systems they can setup, at a nice cost, to help inside the home. One item we have used at our hospitatlity school is called Dr. T's Cobweb Eliminator. Now im not a professional on this at all. But they continue to request it as it is doing a great job at eliminating the formation of the webs and therefore keeping spiders away. Give it some reading and consideration. However, this stuff is not cheap either. But it is definately all natural as well. Plenty of pro's/con's when it comes to spiders. Anyone else have experience with this prodcut? http://www.animalrepellents.com/products.html http://www.cobwebeliminator.com KDC Demon WP works well on spiders Tempo WP works better Demand works well on everything Spiders will seldomly be listed on an insecticide because they are design for spiders Most of the older insecticides worked by the insect ingesting the product when it cleaned itslef after walking through it Spiders walk on their toes and never clean them selves Demon and Tempo (WP)work because they are very repellent Demand (SCs)works because it acts like an ink blotter once it attaches itself to the bug treat the walls of the home up to about the level of the windows treat around all doors windows and entry points and treat the eaves For lawns use Tempo SC for lawns I would also use it on the home so as not to be forced to by two different formulations Other products that will work on the home If you can still find them are Knoxout and Webaway

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Hello everyone, great forum! I am building a shadow box fence that will primarly be 4' in height, with one part of the perimeter being 5' high. This will be constructed using 4x4 treated posts, 2x4 treated stingers, and 1x6 slats (treated or cedar, not sure yet). Spacing of the 4x4 posts will vary but most have 7.5' between them. I want a uniform look on the interior and exterior (just a strong personal preference), so I plan to run the the stringers toe nailed between the posts laying flat. Laying the 2x4 flat will allow me to acheive a consistent width on both sides because the stringer and the post will be the same width. However, realizing it would eventually sag, I plan to run another 2x4 directly underneath it. This one would be standing upright (3.5 side of the 2x4 running vertical this time) for the extra support. The 2x4's would form a T shape between posts. My question is, to prevent the stringers from sagging over time, should I run the extra 2x4 under both the top and bottom stringer for support, or would just supporting the top stringer be enough? I'm not sure if the bottom stringer could even sag once all the slats are nailed to it, but I don't want to have to repair it later. Secondly, I know 2 stringers are recommended between posts for 4 ft fence, 3 are recommended for 6 ft fence. What is best for 5 ft fence ? Thanks ! I would do the T shape top and bottom and add the 3rd stringer to the 5' section. Easier to do now than after you have build the fence. Not sure what width the slats of the fence are going to be, but the extra stringer in the middle will keep them from bowing, twisting or whatever PT lumber does as it dries out. Thanks for the input, that's exactly what I did today and it worked out well. Very sturdy and solid run of fence. Thanks again. I just completed a somewhat similar fence. I have seen quite a few 6' fences with just two horizontal 2x4s providing the support, but after a few years they sag in the middle. I just finished my fence yesterday and I decided to add a pressure treated 2x6 as a kickboard with a 2x4 laying flat above it for the pickets to rest on. 4x4 posts are 7' apart. Before the pickets were installed you could easily stand on the stacked 2x6/2x4 bottom stringer and it felt extremely solid. The top 2x4 stringer probably isn't doing much except holding the top of the pickets when being side-loaded by winds. Here's how it came out: This was my first woodworking project. Would love to see how yours came out. You might consider leaving some gaps between vertical boards the next time you build a fence. With the tight spacing, yours will act like a giant sail, wanting to blow over in a high wind once the post bottoms start to rot.

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Replacing basement windows.....

Have 4 rusting metal basement windows that I wanted to replace with something more energy efficient (and vinyl so no more ugly rusting). The catch is that they are installed into our poured concrete foundation. Ive had one basement co out (Basement Systems, seemed like a nice company, no marketing blitz to try and upsell anything, etc). They gave me a quote but the sales guy said he would need to check or have someone else come out to set expectations on how the finished job would look (basically because he wasnt sure what they could do with the existing metal frame....if it could be removed, etc). Assuming they cant (or wont) do it, I was wondering if anyone had suggestions on how (if?) I could do it myself. One of the frames is completely rusted thru in some spots, and because of that I can see the whole frame isnt inset in the concrete, just the edges, almost like the foundation was poured and the windows were pushed into the concrete before it dried. I really wanted to avoid having to use the existing sill/frame, because they are metal and rusting away. Thanks in advance. -Chris I had a similar situation with a metal frame around my basement window. I don't know how far your frames go into the concrete, but I was able to pry the metal frame out with a crowbar. It took some effort, but it came out. I then built a new frame out of pressure-treated wood to surround the new window and fit in the the opening. The frame was screwed into the concrete with Tapcon screws. If you make frame deep enough, you can nail quarter-round trim around both sides of the window to secure it in the frame. Other then that, I just insulated, caulked, and painted where needed. Thanks, reassuring to hear someone else has done it and it turned out ok I figured thats what Id end up doing, was going to cut the frame in the center and then pry it out. Definitely not doing this until the spring/summer, dont want to chance ending up with big holes in my basement during the winter. You mentioned you had to add pressure treated.....was a stock window size not able to fit? I found the 3 sizes Andersen offers off-shelf at HD, going to measure to see if those fit. -Chris I just used pressure treated wood to prevent rot from moisture in the concrete and outside. I found a stock size window that would fit. The frame was built to fit snug around the window, but as close to the concrete opening as possible. A little space between the concrete and wood can be shimmed/caulked. Good luck. Thanks again. Judging from the sales guys quick measurements, it might take some looking for a stock size to fit (well, Andersen 200 series basement windows wont actually fit). Ill try to take some better measurements to see if maybe he missed something. Tough part will be guesstimating how much room the frame itself takes up (i.e. if there is space between the steel frame and the concrete itself, and the thickness of the frame too). It would be nice to make a bigger window fit, but I dont feel like chipping away too much of my foundation. -Chris If you have an opening that is nice and square, the most common thing to do is to order a custom sized vinyl window that is about 1/4 smaller than the finished cement opening and just shim it in place, install 4 tapcons through the frame to hold it, and caulk both sides of the window with a good urethane sealant that will stick to concrete like Vulkum or Sonneborn NP1. A woodbuck is not needed unless you're planning on installing a window that has a nailing flange, and then you'd be trimming around the window with some trim. Unfortunately I dont have an easy way of determining if the opening is square until the window is removed. And to do that Id probably have to destroy it completely, which means Id have a problem on my hands if a replacement size wasnt available off the shelf. I was actually thinking of trying to drill several holes thru the steel frame, then marking how deep the drill bit goes before hitting concrete. Add those depths to the measurement of the frame and then Ill get a better idea of the opening size without completely killing the window (easy to caulk 1/8 holes). There is also a lip on the metal frame where the sash actually hinges from, so its possible that there is concrete under that lip too which means the opening is closer to that size, rather than the size before the lip. Ill try to get some pics for a better look. Thankfully Im not in the mood to tackle this project in the Fall so there is no rush. -Chris I dont have an easy way of determining if the opening is square until the window is removed So you don't have a tape measure? You can go about this however you like, but maybe if I expound a little, you'll see what I'm referring to. For a moment, forget about drilling holes or thinking about what's behind the frame. You don't have to tear it out to get a plan, and you don't have to tear it out to figure out what sized window you need. Just take a few measurements. You say you have a poured cement opening. When that's the case, removing the window does not change the size of the opening in any way. Those old basement windows are usually nothing more than an angle iron that is about 1 1/4 wide. Some had a beefier frame, shaped kind of like a { , that was perhaps 2 1/4 wide. At any rate, the frame does not go back into the cement very far and it doesn't take much to get them out. To determine the size of the opening, pretend the window isn't even there. You'll just go outside and measure the width and height of the cement opening. You can take those measurements inside and see if it's the same on the inside, you might find that they have parged the opening and made it a bit smaller on the inside... or not. If the foundation is poured, there should be a sloped sill on the bottom of the opening that should be fairly thick, and it should still be in good shape. If you get a vinyl window, it will probably be 3 1/4 wide, and when you install it, it will cover up all the rough concrete that will be left after you remove the old window frame. As you take measurements, check the openings to see if the heights and widths are basically the same. For instance, you might find that they are all pretty close to 32 wide. Or you might find that one opening is a little bigger for some reason... 32 1/2. Once you take all those measurements you can easily figure out what size window will work in all of your openings. To measure for square, you'd simply measure the diagonals of your opening. If the opening is square, the diagonal measurements will be the same. Since your new window will be a little smaller than your cement opening, it's not real critical that the opening be perfectly square. When you do end up removing the window frame you might find that there is a little concrete sticking into the finished opening... a wide cold chisel and a hammer will easily remove it. Also, a 4 1/2 angle grinder with a serrated cement blade will be very handy for grinding down and smoothing out any high spots that remain. This is really one of the easiest type of window to install- not much carpentry involved at all- so don't fret too much about it. As long as you know read a tape measure and order the windows the correct size, you'll do fine. Well, I think Ive gotten a little better reading a tape measure lately The only reason I questioned measure the opening is because it seems that there is a lip on either side of the frame that hangs lower than the concrete opening. Almost like the outer rim of the buck is steel channel, so the center of it is concrete but on the outside you see steel. Now, if I just measure inside the opening Im fine, and thats what Ill do (although it might make the window a little smaller than it could be, I think I can live with it). Now I just need to find a place that will let a homeowner order windows. Never had experience finding such a place, would a lumber yard do something like that? I only need 3 or 4 of these small basement windows. I really liked the Andersens at HD, too bad they wont fit. They were able to get more unobstructed glass because they're now selling the Fibrex windows off the shelf. For my house I wouldnt trust em (I said goodbye to the Andersen Renewal salesman), but for my basement I dont mind. -Chris Not sure what problem you're envisioning, but you're there and can see it, I can only imagine the hundreds of ones that I've done in the past. Best thing I can tell you is to measure OUTSIDE next to the window frame where it meets the cement. Then compare those measurements with those you have inside. In my experience, the outside measurement is usually the one you go with, even if it means the new window will sit out an inch or two farther than it did before. Basement walls are thick so you usually have some room to move it in or out to suit your needs / taste. If you're looking for a fiberglass frame (like Fibrex) so that you have more glass area than a vinyl or wood frame would have, Pella and Marvin also have a fiberglass/composite window that is narrow framed.

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Refurbing a WeedEater BC2400 trimmer

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pvc railing

how do you secure those pvc railing systems to your deck...from what i see at lowes there is a bottom plate that get screwed to the deck floor and then the post sits in that...does seem to secure..am i missing something...thaks I believe we are talking about the same product. It is not PVC all the way through, but rather composite-centered that is covered in white vinyl. Its strong stuff. I just got through installing it on my new deck and it wasn't easy. Are you trying to install it on an existing deck, or a new deck? If its a new deck, they sell brackets and you attach the posts to the rim joists much in the same way you would with 4x4's except you don't run a bolt through them - you use their expensive bracket system. If you are putting them on your existing deck -then - yes - they sell that plate system. It doesn't look strong to me either, but if they sell it, it must pass code somewhere. Be sure to check with your local inspector. As I said, I just got through installing this Severe Weather system. I am very happy with how it turned out, but I will add two caveats: Its very expensive by the time you get through getting all the accessories, and doing 45 degree angles is simply a pain in the neck. Feel free to write back with any questions about this system - I consider myself an expert on it now. I'm going to be putting a vinyl railing on my deck, but from HD, not Lowe's. It will be the Williamsburg railing, which looks like turned balusters, not square. Anyways, I have a choice of mounting the posts either way. If I choose the Williamsburg posts, which look turned, then they have to be mounted on top of the deck boards because they won't slide over the 4x4 posts. If I go with the square posts, they can be slid over the 4x4s. I think anything that's bolted to the deck frame is the strongest, so I'm going to use the square post covers. It's all a matter of what you want it to look like, and what you deem safe enough. This is a good subject. I looked at both closely as well. Some other key differences: 1. HD has a product that is already notched and can be bolted to the outside of your frame. That's very convenient if you like that look. 2. The Lowes product is hollow - and what's nice about that is that its very easy to mount post lighting and drop the wire down through the post. 3. Both are expensive....seriously pricey once you buy all the accessories - but both look very good. In the end, I chose the Lowe's - but its a matter of preference. I agree that mounting them to your deck is not a good option when you can attach them to the framing. Let me know if you have questions once you start putting in the railing - that can be quite tricky and I have some good tips I learned from my errors. I installed last year vinyl railing system from lowes (at home) and its work beauty. First of you want to use the 4x4 with the sleeve over it it's the best way to Do it, beside with 4x4 you can mount them to the main stricter with carriage bolts And you good to go, it will never move this century for sure, as for the carriage bolt they Always need to be mounted in cross not in straight line, as for dimensional lumber 4x4 is about 3.5 inch ,and lowes ,HD or any supplies house will carry what you looking for in particular. Good luck Originally Posted by deckgrasshopper Let me know if you have questions once you start putting in the railing - that can be quite tricky and I have some good tips I learned from my errors. Do tell! I'm assuming that the post covers won't fit snugly over the posts. I had read somewhere once before that they should be shimmed so they are tight. I was thinking about pushing the corner ones into the corner of the post so the extra space is on the outside on both the side and the front. I figured those are the sides that will possibly get pushed on from on the deck, not from the outside. Not sure about posts down the straight runs. Just push them against the inside of the posts and pick either the left or right to push them all to. Shimming might take care of the problem for me though. Any other gotchas? I did not slide mine over existing posts, but rather built the deck from scratch and just used the SevereWeather posts as is - they are strong and don't need the insert. It sounds like you have posts and are going to put these over the top - a couple of gotchas: 1. The fit is going to be good, not pefect. If you shim it, I agree, make sure you shim them all on the same side so they line up equally. YOu are only talking about 1/8 tops here though. Actually - if your posts are not pefectly aligned (say your rim joist was a bit bowed) this is a chance to make the posts more well aligned. Once shimmed - you will be sinking screws through the sleeve into the wood in order to secure the railing. I doubt highly you will get anything less than a solid-feeling post. 2. Before you go shimming etc..you might want to take advantage of this slight room to put some lighting on your posts. I did it (for 50.00 you get a transformer and 6 lights from Lowes/HD of low voltage post lights). You just affix the lights to the sleeve and run the wire down the gap and under the deck where it connects to a main wire you'll run. I love my lights - its so nice at night to have that downlighting for ambience. 3. If you don't have angles - then this is going to be a pretty easy job. It would help to have a 2nd person- but I did it alone with minimal frustration about the ballusters. The railing is all about placement of the brackets - there are no ballusters to cut. Just get the brackets on and snap - you are done. 4. You will probably have to cut your posts to get the desired height - they are sold in 48 length. Don't worry if the cut isn't perfect - it will get hidden by either the decorative base ring, or the decorative post cap. If you don't have angles (45 degree) - this is a very forgiving, easy to install system. (But very expensive) Originally Posted by Crocostimpy Do tell! I'm assuming that the post covers won't fit snugly over the posts. I had read somewhere once before that they should be shimmed so they are tight. I was thinking about pushing the corner ones into the corner of the post so the extra space is on the outside on both the side and the front. I figured those are the sides that will possibly get pushed on from on the deck, not from the outside. Not sure about posts down the straight runs. Just push them against the inside of the posts and pick either the left or right to push them all to. Shimming might take care of the problem for me though. Any other gotchas? did you shim the sleeves. If so how and with what? deckgrasshopper, Just because a big box store sells it, don't assume it meets code ANYWHERE, and chance are about even as to whether it'll meet code in the jursidiction where your is located. There are different systems for attaching vinyl railing. The ones I use all call for a wood 4X4 to be bolted to the deck framing and a sleeve slides over that once the decking is installed. Whether the style that has a bracket bolted to the decking (PLUS THE ADDITIONAL FRAMING UNDER THE DECK BOARD!!) will meet your local code or not is strictly up to your local bldg. dept. Shimming the sleeves usually isn't necessary. Once the rail brackets are attached with 1-1/2 screws, those screws will be embedded at least an inch into the 4X4. Just make sure the sleeve is plumb and square before attaching the brackets and that your screws don't pull it around. Originally Posted by rapat62 did you shim the sleeves. If so how and with what? Well, that house and deck are now gone and I will be looking to do it all over again at our new place, but yes I did end up shimming them. I don't remember exactly how thick they were, but I'm thinking about 1/4. I slid a vinyl sleeve over a post, pushed it into a corner of the post, and measured what I'd need. I went and bought a bunch of 1 by whatever thickness pieces of wood and cut the length the same as the sleeve, so the shims would sit on the decking. I dropped the shims in after the sleeve was slid over the post. In most cases I had to tap them down into the gaps. The faces of the vinyl sleeves tend to bow in a little so that made the shims snug. That's good, because they won't move around later. I used two shims for each face gap, or four per post. I agree that you don't have to shim the sleeves, but I'm anal about everything and I figured it didn't take much more time to just do it. Incidentally, if your doing a vinyl railing, now's a great time to run low voltage lighting through the railing. I picked up a kit that had lights that mounted on the posts. Mount them just low enough so that when you're seated you can't see the bulbs. You'll have to bore some holes through the posts to pass the wires to the lights, and to the next railing. Snake the wires up the first post through the gap between the post and the vinyl sleeve. We were very happy with how it turned out, and hated to leave that house. Oh well, the next one will be even better! http://www.picattic.com/viewer.php?f...gra986nmqe.jpg I did a some research on vinyl railings and got samples from these two websites www.usavinyl.com and www.weatherwise.com both seemed very sturdy with aluminum reinforcement in the top and bottom rail. weatherwise offers a nice handrail system. I plan to order my railing from usavinyl and handrail from weatherwise. It will be matched with quadra PVC decking, with the posts being 4x4 treated coming up out of the frame. Deck should be complete by mid August.

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Postmaster Fence Posts

What is the general consenses on the Postmaster Fence Posts? The Master Halco Website is pretty convincing. However, they are about $45 a piece from my local supplier! Home Depot and Lowes both sell another Master Halco product of similar design with a similar name. they cost about $16 a piece. Are they equally as strong? Same quality steel, galvanizing thickness, etc? When I called Master Halco they acknowledge that Home Depot and Lowes carries the product, but could not provide me any technical information. Where in the store did you find this other Master Halco product? We have both Lowes and HD here, but I have never seen them. I was planning on using 2 3/8 round pipe and simpson PGTs, but if these are better then maybe I'll use them. $45 is a bit steep for bent metal. I guess you can charge what you want when you've got the patent. -Marc At HD they are upright in the racks along side the round galv. fence posts. At Lowes they were in the hidden in the back of the outdoor portion of the store near the prefab fence panels. along side pallets and bundles of additional fencing product inventory. I just happened to notice them piled there in a dark corner. if I wasn't already familiar with the product, I would not have even known what they were. And like everything else at Lowes they were a couple dollars more. I actually used them with some prefab fence panels for a very short section, close off a section of side yard. They worked fairly well, although the whole fence flexes a little more than I would like. My next project is a bigger undertaking. It's a 6' high panel fence on top of a 24 CMU wall. I'd like the posts to be about 2 feet longer so that they reach down into the footing and I'd like them to be a bit more rigid. Thanks, I'll try and see if I can find these at our local stores. If I remember correctly 8 foot 2 3/8 round galvanized poles were about $11. Can't remember how much Simpson PGT's are, but assuming they are at least a couple of bucks a piece, the Master Halco product may be slightly a better deal. But if they make the fence flex too much, I am not sure they are worth the cost savings. Has anyone here used the $45 posts? Ahhh...That get back the gist of my original question! I am installing a 100+ foot fence alongside my property using HD purchased privacy panels and 8' Postmaster Fence Posts purchased from the Fence Factory ($28 each) in Agoura Hills, CA. I am putting the posts 24 inches into the ground and so far things are going great (6 of 16 panels installed). Along with 150+ feet of chain link that I installed with the help of day labor, this is my first fence project. I took the plunge and bought the postmaster posts for my fence. When I compared the price of round chainlink style posts and simpson PGTs the cost of the postmaster was not much of a jump. I found them online for $25 a piece. Not cheap, and I had to pick them up myself at a Master Halco distributor to avoid hefty shipping charges. It worked out okay though, and I almost have them all installed. The posts are very sturdy, I believe they spec out at .120 thick. Now I just hope they last forever. -Marc Marc, Can you please tell me the specific website where you found the posts??? I am in Spokane, WA...cannot find anything here except at a contractor supplier ($45 each!!!) Thanks, Michael Java 4 y/o post, I doubt you will get a reply...I'd suggest contacting the manufacturer and see who distributes them in your area. Replying for any one researching these. I also found these posts hard to source but the local master halco distribution center sold them to me since there wasn't a local retailer. They are incredibly substantial. They use a special method for attaching wood to them and have to go in a certain way. For gate posts you double them for extra stability. Regular post is good -- the doubled version is very solid. I really don't see this post ever wearing out like a normal wood post put in the ground. But it wasn't worth all my trouble to find and purchase them in hind sight -- unless I was planning on being the house for 15+ years.

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